How to Make Power Window Cables - Revision history

1985amceagle: Protected "How to Make Power Window Cables" [edit=sysop:move=sysop]

2013-04-28T19:25:05Z

Protected "How to Make Power Window Cables" [edit=sysop:move=sysop]

1985amceagle: Reverted edits by Smitch (Talk); changed back to last version by Whuntmore

2013-04-28T19:24:54Z

Reverted edits by Smitch (Talk); changed back to last version by Whuntmore

Smitch: Reverted edits by Whuntmore (Talk); changed back to last version by Smitch

2013-01-25T10:26:49Z

Reverted edits by Whuntmore (Talk); changed back to last version by Smitch

Whuntmore at 16:50, 27 November 2012

2012-11-27T16:50:12Z

Smitch: Replacing page with 'Submitted by amceagleneoesn't want to find and pay a large amount for a replacement one.'

2012-11-21T22:25:49Z

Replacing page with 'Submitted by amceagleneoesn't want to find and pay a large amount for a replacement one.'

Smitch at 20:04, 6 August 2012

2012-08-06T20:04:46Z

Smitch at 14:24, 28 July 2012

2012-07-28T14:24:12Z

Smitch at 14:16, 28 July 2012

2012-07-28T14:16:28Z

Smitch: New page: Submitted by amceaglenest.com member ammachine390. My window cable seized the other day, didn't really want to spend 80+ dollars from the old Jeep dealer for one replacement. A little bi...

2012-07-28T14:14:21Z

New page: Submitted by amceaglenest.com member ammachine390. My window cable seized the other day, didn't really want to spend 80+ dollars from the old Jeep dealer for one replacement. A little bi...

New page

Submitted by amceaglenest.com member ammachine390.

My window cable seized the other day, didn't really want to spend 80+ dollars from the old Jeep dealer for one replacement. A little bit of research, and I discovered that the power seat cables from 80s/90s GM products are VERY similar. Went to the junkyard today, and there were plenty Regals/Cutlasses/Impalas/Caprices to choose from. I found some from a 90s Caprice. As I took them out, they were NOT a direct replacement for our window cables like I had thought they were. I figured I could modify them to work though, so I got 2 of them, 1 that was slightly longer than our window cables, and 1 short one, just to mess around with the clips to see how I could take them apart without ruining the one I actually wanted to use.

[[Image:Example.jpg]]

Heres the 3 cables all next to each other. The 2 on the left are from the Chevy, the right one is the original AMC one. As you can see, the black clips are identical, however the chevy ones have the white clip which our cars don't use. Also, the actual cable sticks out farther on the AMC one, than on the chevy one. So when the chevy one plugs into the regulator, it doesn't grab, it just spins. So the cable needs to stick further out of the bracket.

So, I used a cold chisel to split the white bracket off since it was unneeded. Once that is off, you can see this little plastic nut thing. (this picture shows the green cable, as thats what I practiced this on first, same method applies to the blue cable)

[[Image:Example.jpg]]

[[Image:Example.jpg]]

The little plastic nut unscrews, turning it clockwise unscrews it. Once thats unscrewed, the cable can be pushed out of sheathing a little bit, to reveal the little plastic nut on the black bracket side. I then screwed this nut further in (turning it counterclockwise). The pushed the cable back into the sheathing, now the cable sticks out past the bracket the same amount as the AMC cable.

[[Image:Example.jpg]]

Then, I pulled the little plastic cylinder that keeps the bracket (the one that connects to the motor, and holds the motor in place in the door) off of the AMC cable. Here it is off the cable.

[[Image:Example.jpg]]

And next to the new cable.

[[Image:Example.jpg]]

I had to take off some of sheathing, so that I could screw in the plastic nut in far enough, to have enough cable stick out.

The cable is not square throughout the whole length, it becomes round. The plastic nut, had to be screwed up into where the cable is round, but it doesn't grab there, so I put it where it needs to be, and put a dab of The Right Stuff RTV to keep it from sliding down.

Then I slid the old cylinder piece onto the new cable (make sure the metal bracket goes on before the plastic cylinder), I "glued" on with some RTV around the edges, and inside.

And here is the final product. Looks pretty close to the original cable, except is blue, and is a little bit longer. The RTV doesn't hold exactly the way I wanted it to, and the cable can just slide out from the cylinder. But I don't think it will be an issue as the cable sits in pretty far, and would take a large force to come out. But if it does comes out, I can just stick it back into the motor, and then tape the cylinder to the sheathing. (Hope that made sense).

[[Image:Example.jpg]]

It's all back together, and the window rolls up and down great.

Hope this helps everyone who needs a cable and doesn't want to find and pay a large amount for a replacement one.

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:24, 28 April 2013
Line 1:		Line 1:
−	Submitted by ~~amceagleneoesn~~'t want to find and pay a large amount for a replacement one.	+	Submitted by amceaglenest.com member ammachine390.
		+
		+	My window cable seized the other day, didn't really want to spend 80+ dollars from the old Jeep dealer for one replacement. A little bit of research, and I discovered that the power seat cables from 80s/90s GM products are VERY similar. Went to the junkyard today, and there were plenty Regals/Cutlasses/Impalas/Caprices to choose from. I found some from a 90s Caprice. As I took them out, they were NOT a direct replacement for our window cables like I had thought they were. I figured I could modify them to work though, so I got 2 of them, 1 that was slightly longer than our window cables, and 1 short one, just to mess around with the clips to see how I could take them apart without ruining the one I actually wanted to use.
		+
		+	[[Image:pwc1.jpg]]
		+
		+
		+	Heres the 3 cables all next to each other. The 2 on the left are from the Chevy, the right one is the original AMC one. As you can see, the black clips are identical, however the chevy ones have the white clip which our cars don't use. Also, the actual cable sticks out farther on the AMC one, than on the chevy one. So when the chevy one plugs into the regulator, it doesn't grab, it just spins. So the cable needs to stick further out of the bracket.
		+
		+
		+	So, I used a cold chisel to split the white bracket off since it was unneeded. Once that is off, you can see this little plastic nut thing. (this picture shows the green cable, as thats what I practiced this on first, same method applies to the blue cable)
		+
		+	[[Image:pwc2.jpg]]
		+
		+	[[Image:pwc3.jpg]]
		+
		+
		+	The little plastic nut unscrews, turning it clockwise unscrews it. Once thats unscrewed, the cable can be pushed out of sheathing a little bit, to reveal the little plastic nut on the black bracket side. I then screwed this nut further in (turning it counterclockwise). The pushed the cable back into the sheathing, now the cable sticks out past the bracket the same amount as the AMC cable.
		+
		+	[[Image:pwc4.jpg]]
		+
		+	Then, I pulled the little plastic cylinder that keeps the bracket (the one that connects to the motor, and holds the motor in place in the door) off of the AMC cable. Here it is off the cable.
		+
		+	[[Image:pwc5.jpg]]
		+
		+	And next to the new cable.
		+
		+	[[Image:pwc6.jpg]]
		+
		+	I had to take off some of sheathing, so that I could screw in the plastic nut in far enough, to have enough cable stick out.
		+
		+	The cable is not square throughout the whole length, it becomes round. The plastic nut, had to be screwed up into where the cable is round, but it doesn't grab there, so I put it where it needs to be, and put a dab of The Right Stuff RTV to keep it from sliding down.
		+
		+	[[Image:pwc7.jpg]]
		+
		+
		+	Then I slid the old cylinder piece onto the new cable (make sure the metal bracket goes on before the plastic cylinder), I "glued" on with some RTV around the edges, and inside.
		+
		+	And here is the final product. Looks pretty close to the original cable, except is blue, and is a little bit longer. The RTV doesn't hold exactly the way I wanted it to, and the cable can just slide out from the cylinder. But I don't think it will be an issue as the cable sits in pretty far, and would take a large force to come out. But if it does comes out, I can just stick it back into the motor, and then tape the cylinder to the sheathing. (Hope that made sense).
		+
		+	[[Image:pwc8.jpg]]
		+
		+	It's all back together, and the window rolls up and down great.
		+
		+	Hope this helps everyone who needs a cable and doesn't want to find and pay a large amount for a replacement one.

← Older revision		Revision as of 16:50, 27 November 2012
Line 1:		Line 1:
−	Submitted by ~~amceagleneoesn~~'t want to find and pay a large amount for a replacement one.	+	Submitted by amceaglenest.com member ammachine390.
		+
		+	My window cable seized the other day, didn't really want to spend 80+ dollars from the old Jeep dealer for one replacement. A little bit of research, and I discovered that the power seat cables from 80s/90s GM products are VERY similar. Went to the junkyard today, and there were plenty Regals/Cutlasses/Impalas/Caprices to choose from. I found some from a 90s Caprice. As I took them out, they were NOT a direct replacement for our window cables like I had thought they were. I figured I could modify them to work though, so I got 2 of them, 1 that was slightly longer than our window cables, and 1 short one, just to mess around with the clips to see how I could take them apart without ruining the one I actually wanted to use.
		+
		+	[[Image:pwc1.jpg]]
		+
		+
		+	Heres the 3 cables all next to each other. The 2 on the left are from the Chevy, the right one is the original AMC one. As you can see, the black clips are identical, however the chevy ones have the white clip which our cars don't use. Also, the actual cable sticks out farther on the AMC one, than on the chevy one. So when the chevy one plugs into the regulator, it doesn't grab, it just spins. So the cable needs to stick further out of the bracket.
		+
		+
		+	So, I used a cold chisel to split the white bracket off since it was unneeded. Once that is off, you can see this little plastic nut thing. (this picture shows the green cable, as thats what I practiced this on first, same method applies to the blue cable)
		+
		+	[[Image:pwc2.jpg]]
		+
		+	[[Image:pwc3.jpg]]
		+
		+
		+	The little plastic nut unscrews, turning it clockwise unscrews it. Once thats unscrewed, the cable can be pushed out of sheathing a little bit, to reveal the little plastic nut on the black bracket side. I then screwed this nut further in (turning it counterclockwise). The pushed the cable back into the sheathing, now the cable sticks out past the bracket the same amount as the AMC cable.
		+
		+	[[Image:pwc4.jpg]]
		+
		+	Then, I pulled the little plastic cylinder that keeps the bracket (the one that connects to the motor, and holds the motor in place in the door) off of the AMC cable. Here it is off the cable.
		+
		+	[[Image:pwc5.jpg]]
		+
		+	And next to the new cable.
		+
		+	[[Image:pwc6.jpg]]
		+
		+	I had to take off some of sheathing, so that I could screw in the plastic nut in far enough, to have enough cable stick out.
		+
		+	The cable is not square throughout the whole length, it becomes round. The plastic nut, had to be screwed up into where the cable is round, but it doesn't grab there, so I put it where it needs to be, and put a dab of The Right Stuff RTV to keep it from sliding down.
		+
		+	[[Image:pwc7.jpg]]
		+
		+
		+	Then I slid the old cylinder piece onto the new cable (make sure the metal bracket goes on before the plastic cylinder), I "glued" on with some RTV around the edges, and inside.
		+
		+	And here is the final product. Looks pretty close to the original cable, except is blue, and is a little bit longer. The RTV doesn't hold exactly the way I wanted it to, and the cable can just slide out from the cylinder. But I don't think it will be an issue as the cable sits in pretty far, and would take a large force to come out. But if it does comes out, I can just stick it back into the motor, and then tape the cylinder to the sheathing. (Hope that made sense).
		+
		+	[[Image:pwc8.jpg]]
		+
		+	It's all back together, and the window rolls up and down great.
		+
		+	Hope this helps everyone who needs a cable and doesn't want to find and pay a large amount for a replacement one.

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:04, 6 August 2012
Line 16:		Line 16:


−	The little plastic nut unscrews, turning it clockwise unscrews it. Once thats unscrewed, the cable can be pushed out of sheathing a little bit, to reveal the little plastic nut on the black bracket side. I then screwed this nut further in (turning it counterclockwise). ~~The~~ pushed the cable back into the sheathing, now the cable sticks out past the bracket the same amount as the AMC cable.	+	The little plastic nut unscrews, turning it clockwise unscrews it. Once thats unscrewed, the cable can be pushed out of sheathing a little bit, to reveal the little plastic nut on the black bracket side. I then screwed this nut further in (turning it counterclockwise). Then I pushed the cable back into the sheathing, now the cable sticks out past the bracket the same amount as the AMC cable.

	[[Image:pwc4.jpg]]		[[Image:pwc4.jpg]]

← Older revision	Revision as of 19:25, 28 April 2013
(No difference)

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
-Submitted by amceaglenest.com member ammachine390.
+Submitted by amceagleneoesn't want to find and pay a large amount for a replacement one.
-−
-My window cable seized the other day, didn't really want to spend 80+ dollars from the old Jeep dealer for one replacement. A little bit of research, and I discovered that the power seat cables from 80s/90s GM products are VERY similar. Went to the junkyard today, and there were plenty Regals/Cutlasses/Impalas/Caprices to choose from. I found some from a 90s Caprice. As I took them out, they were NOT a direct replacement for our window cables like I had thought they were. I figured I could modify them to work though, so I got  2 of them, 1 that was slightly longer than our window cables, and 1 short one, just to mess around with the clips to see how I could take them apart without ruining the one I actually wanted to use.
-−
-[[Image:pwc1.jpg]]
-−
-−
-Heres the 3 cables all next to each other. The 2 on the left are from the Chevy, the right one is the original AMC one. As you can see, the black clips are identical, however the chevy ones have the white clip which our cars don't use. Also, the actual cable sticks out farther on the AMC one, than on the chevy one. So when the chevy one plugs into the regulator, it doesn't grab, it just spins. So the cable needs to stick further out of the bracket.
-−
-−
-So, I used a cold chisel to split the white bracket off since it was unneeded. Once that is off, you can see this little plastic nut thing. (this picture shows the green cable, as thats what I practiced this on first, same method applies to the blue cable)
-−
-[[Image:pwc2.jpg]]
-−
-[[Image:pwc3.jpg]]
-−
-−
-The little plastic nut unscrews, turning it clockwise unscrews it. Once thats unscrewed, the cable can be pushed out of sheathing a little bit, to reveal the little plastic nut on the black bracket side. I then screwed this nut further in (turning it counterclockwise). The pushed the cable back into the sheathing, now the cable sticks out past the bracket the same amount as the AMC cable.
-−
-[[Image:pwc4.jpg]]
-−
-Then, I pulled the little plastic cylinder that keeps the bracket (the one that connects to the motor, and holds the motor in place in the door) off of the AMC cable. Here it is off the cable.
-−
-[[Image:pwc5.jpg]]
-−
-And next to the new cable.
-−
-[[Image:pwc6.jpg]]
-−
-I had to take off some of sheathing, so that I could screw in the plastic nut in far enough, to have enough cable stick out.
-−
-The cable is not square throughout the whole length, it becomes round. The plastic nut, had to be screwed up into where the cable is round, but it doesn't grab there, so I put it where it needs to be, and put a dab of The Right Stuff RTV to keep it from sliding down.
-−
-[[Image:pwc7.jpg]]
-−
-−
-Then I slid the old cylinder piece onto the new cable (make sure the metal bracket goes on before the plastic cylinder), I "glued" on with some RTV around the edges, and inside.
-−
-And here is the final product. Looks pretty close to the original cable, except is blue, and is a little bit longer. The RTV doesn't hold exactly the way I wanted it to, and the cable can just slide out from the cylinder. But I don't think it will be an issue as the cable sits in pretty far, and would take a large force to come out. But if it does comes out, I can just stick it back into the motor, and then tape the cylinder to the sheathing. (Hope that made sense).
-−
-[[Image:pwc8.jpg]]
-−
-It's all back together, and the window rolls up and down great.
-−
-Hope this helps everyone who needs a cable and doesn't want to find and pay a large amount for a replacement one.