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		<title>Headlight Relay Modification - Revision history</title>
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		<updated>2026-06-19T08:50:20Z</updated>
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		<id>https://www.amceaglesnest.com/guide/index.php?title=Headlight_Relay_Modification&amp;diff=7658&amp;oldid=prev</id>
		<title>IowaEagle: New page: By AMC Eagles Den Member John Bendiksen  I am posting this to encourage anyone who has not added relays to their headlight circuits to do so.  It's a quick, fun project that makes a huge d...</title>
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				<updated>2014-11-21T21:27:45Z</updated>
		
		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;New page: By AMC Eagles Den Member John Bendiksen  I am posting this to encourage anyone who has not added relays to their headlight circuits to do so.  It&amp;#039;s a quick, fun project that makes a huge d...&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&lt;b&gt;New page&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div&gt;By AMC Eagles Den Member John Bendiksen&lt;br /&gt;
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I am posting this to encourage anyone who has not added relays to their headlight circuits to do so.  It's a quick, fun project that makes a huge difference in your headlight brightness.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When I first got my Eagle, I was dismayed to see how dim and 'yellowy' the headlights were.  It was so bad that I hesitated to drive it much at night.  At first, I blamed the old-school small rectangular headlights.  I replaced them all with halogen units, and they actually seemed a little worse.  Then I did some research on this board and elsewhere, and learned that AMC did not use relays for the headlights (in 1984, at least); the entire current for all 4 headlights runs all the way from the battery to the headlight switch on the dash and back to the lights themselves!  I looked at the wire on the headlight side, and it was very thin gauge, I'm guessing 18-gauge at best.  I wish now that I had actually measured the voltage drop at the headlights themselves (for a before/after comparison), but instead I jumped right into the relay project.&lt;br /&gt;
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I used this article as a guide for the project:  http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html     Although it is not Eagle-specific, it explains the benefits of adding relays to older cars very well, and has lots of how-to information.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I bought a couple of relays (Metra Install E-123 Bay Tyco Relay 12 Volt 30 Amp, $6.45 each on Amazon), a spool each of red and black 14-gauge wire, and a inline fuse block (In-line ACT Water-resistant Fuse Holder - 10AWG, $3.05 on Amazon).  If you buy some other relay type, make sure you get the kind that have two output terminals, so you can run a separate line for each headlight.  I started out wanting to use sockets for the relays themselves, but all of the ones I could find used thin 16 or 18 gauge wire for the leads, which would have defeated my purpose.  So I ended up going with regular 1/4 inch female terminal connectors, which I soldered directly onto the wires to the switch and lights.&lt;br /&gt;
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To keep all of the wires as short as possible, I mounted the relays on a wooden block very close to the battery.  I grounded the relays and all four headlights (14-gauge black wires) to one of the mounting screws for the small metal thing (relay?) mounted right behind the battery.  I used individual wires for power to each headlight (14-gauge red wires), running directly to the relays.  Here's a picture, looking over the fender from the passenger-side corner into the engine compartment:&lt;br /&gt;
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The thick red wire loop is the 10-gauge positive feed (with 40-amp fuse) for the whole system&lt;br /&gt;
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The difference this made was amazing, literally like night and day.  The 'yellowness' is gone, and the lights are much, much brighter.  And I have to think it's a little safer to not have the full lighting current running up to the headlight switch on the dash.&lt;br /&gt;
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John Bendiksen&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>IowaEagle</name></author>	</entry>

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