Automatic to Manual Transmission Swap - Revision history

IowaEagle at 16:39, 20 January 2007

2007-01-20T16:39:31Z

IowaEagle at 16:36, 20 January 2007

2007-01-20T16:36:21Z

IowaEagle at 16:34, 20 January 2007

2007-01-20T16:34:08Z

IowaEagle at 16:29, 20 January 2007

2007-01-20T16:29:03Z

IowaEagle at 16:26, 20 January 2007

2007-01-20T16:26:02Z

IowaEagle at 16:22, 20 January 2007

2007-01-20T16:22:11Z

IowaEagle at 16:18, 20 January 2007

2007-01-20T16:18:16Z

IowaEagle at 16:14, 20 January 2007

2007-01-20T16:14:33Z

IowaEagle at 16:12, 20 January 2007

2007-01-20T16:12:06Z

IowaEagle at 16:06, 20 January 2007

2007-01-20T16:06:48Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 16:39, 20 January 2007
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	[[Image:line002.jpg\|frame\|center]]		[[Image:line002.jpg\|frame\|center]]
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		+	I bolted the line in place and found it worked better if I turned the coil to the other side, and I sudggest using a smaller coil, and to make it slightly higher up or lower, since it was in just the right spot to interfere with the brake lines.
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		+	Now when I bolted on the slave and tried to bleed it, it wouldn’t, so I moved on, only to find later that the seals in the slave were bad, and it is no longer available. But a rebuild kit is for around $16, and that is all It needed. And it took less than 10 minuets to disassemble, pop in the new seals, and put back together.
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		+	Now that the lines and master are in place, you can bolt the brake booster back onto the firwall.
		+	Then I bolted in the pedals for the stick, and first found the pushrod for the brakes mounts onto the opposite side on the manual brake pedal, then I found that the clutch pedal I came up with had a slightly different configuration than the Kammback I was looking at as a model. So I welded a bolt to the pedal '''and it came out looking like this….'''
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		+	[[Image:pushrodfix.jpg\|frame\|center]]
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		+	Now you can easily bleed the clutch, and make sure all the brakes are working. And bolt on all the extras you may have pulled off the dash for access.
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		+	For a shifter, I built a temporary one using another shifter, cut short, and welded onto a piece of tubing with a bolt through it to wedge it against the stub on the tranny, sorry, no pic
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		+	As for a shift boot, for now I am looking, and I just have a wad of foam stuffed in the hole to stop the air leak.
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		+	If you made it this far, the reverse lights and neutral safety should be easy,
		+	The reverse lights and neutral safety share one common wire.
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		+	I did not have a plug for the neutral safety, so I twisted two of the previous wires together, and checked if it would start, It didn’t, but the reverse lights were on, so I twisted a different combo (only three possibilities here) and got it right, it started.
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		+	So I crimped on a eyelet and attached it to the reverse light switch, and did the same with the remaining wire on the other side of the switch. (as this is wired, there is no neutral safety, I will rewire it when I find a plug that fits the neutral safety switch, then again, I may just leave it this way, my other two vehicles don’t have it and Im used to it.)
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		+	Well, that’s it, Ill add on when I get the shift boot done, but for now it runs, and should get me to Colorado. Ill add and edit as needed, hope this is helpful.

← Older revision		Revision as of 16:36, 20 January 2007
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		+	That screwed into the end. The line that came with it was trashed as well, but I used it to make a copy out of brake line, it didn’t have the rubber section, '''so I coiled it to absorb movement…'''

	[[Image:line002.jpg\|frame\|center]]		[[Image:line002.jpg\|frame\|center]]

← Older revision		Revision as of 16:34, 20 January 2007
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	[[Image:pedal01.jpg\|frame\|center]]		[[Image:pedal01.jpg\|frame\|center]]
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		+	Now there may be a piece of insulation there, but on mine it was precut, I just had to pop the piece out to expose the fire wall.
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		+	A hole saw would be perfect for this part, But I couldn’t find the right size, so I marked it with the inner flage as a template and drilled a bunch of little holes in a circle, then knocked out the center '''and cleaned it up with a file…..'''


	[[Image:pedal02.jpg\|frame\|center]]		[[Image:pedal02.jpg\|frame\|center]]
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		+	Now pull the brake cylinder, and booster that was previously unbolted forward and to the side, and you should see the holes you just made right behind, and next to the fenderwell.
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		+	Nows the really hard part, slide the master through the firewall and bolt it on, sounds easy, but your arms aren’t long enough to reach both sides of the fasteners. I did it by myself, and wedged a ratchet up against the fenderwell, but it would have been way easyer if I had help..
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		+	After bolting the master to the firewall, I had to build a new resivoir tube, mine was damaged in shipping, but I worked something out. I cut it off at the metal base, then clamped a piece of ¾” vinyl tubing the same lenghth, and '''stuck the vent from the original in the top….'''
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		+	[[Image:line001.jpg\|frame\|center]]
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		+	[[Image:line002.jpg\|frame\|center]]

← Older revision		Revision as of 16:29, 20 January 2007
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	[[Image:manualshiftlever.jpg\|frame\|center]]		[[Image:manualshiftlever.jpg\|frame\|center]]
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		+	Step three linkage and pedals, this part sucks.
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		+	First, remove the pivot bolt from the brake pedal rod and switch, then the large pivot bolt from the top of the pedal, remove the pedal and do with it whatever, you wont be using it. (on some models you will want to remove the shelf/ duct thingy and the center console for access)
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		+	Now with the pedal out of the way, unbolt the four nuts holding the booster to the firewall, you WILL need the room to install the clutch master cylinder.
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		+	Next locate where the slave must go, just above the fuse block, where the flasher relay will fit right underneath it. '''I took a Photo of a friends Kammback for reference…'''
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		+	[[Image:pedal01.jpg\|frame\|center]]
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		+	[[Image:pedal02.jpg\|frame\|center]]

← Older revision		Revision as of 16:26, 20 January 2007
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	[[Image:crossmemberfix02.jpg\|frame\|center]]		[[Image:crossmemberfix02.jpg\|frame\|center]]
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		+	Now go ahead and bolt up the crossmemers, and hook the driveshafts back up.
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		+	Bolt the starter back on, and reattach the cover plate.
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		+	And bolt the skid plate back on.
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		+	No need to modify the shifter hole, mine fit just fine through the original hole, but I need to come up with '''a shift boot that fits the automatic console…'''
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		+	[[Image:manualshiftlever.jpg\|frame\|center]]

← Older revision		Revision as of 16:22, 20 January 2007
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	[[Image:tcstud02.jpg\|frame\|center]]		[[Image:tcstud02.jpg\|frame\|center]]
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		+	Next I found the flange for the tranny mount is 2” lower on the t-4, and you are unable to use the original mount, so the proper thing to do is to build a custom crossmember, but im short on time, so this is my temporary fix until I get one built. I just sandwiched the crossmember between two hunks of tire sidewall with longer bolts and a piece of flat stock on the bottom '''like this…'''
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		+	[[Image:crossmemberfix01.jpg\|frame\|center]]
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		+	[[Image:crossmemberfix02.jpg\|frame\|center]]

← Older revision		Revision as of 16:18, 20 January 2007
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	[[Image:spacerdowel.jpg\|frame\|center]]		[[Image:spacerdowel.jpg\|frame\|center]]
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		+	Next bolt up the tranny, it might need to be forced the last 1/2”, but be careful if you use the bolts to pull it into place, it is possible to break an ear off the tranny. also it has to have the GM 10 spline input to match the clutch, or you have to get a custom built clutch. Mine came with a GM 14 spline for the four cylinders, and I bought a new 10 spline input shaft to put in its place for $95
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		+	Now you get to bolt the T case up, but first you have to remove the top right(facing forward of vehicle) stud from the transfer case, it is not used, there is no hole, if it were there it would interfere with the shifter linkage inside the transmission, '''here it is..'''
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		+	[[Image:tcstud01.jpg\|frame\|center]]
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		+	[[Image:tcstud02.jpg\|frame\|center]]

← Older revision		Revision as of 16:14, 20 January 2007
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	[[Image:chunkgrinding.jpg\|frame\|center]]		[[Image:chunkgrinding.jpg\|frame\|center]]
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		+	The very top bolt on the auto is a long one like the rest, but on a manual its shorter, instead of searching for the right bolt, '''I just used an extra bellhousing alignment dowel as a spacer like this…'''
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		+	[[Image:spacerdowel.jpg\|frame\|center]]

← Older revision		Revision as of 16:12, 20 January 2007
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	[[Image:slavecylinderinstall04.jpg\|frame\|center]]		[[Image:slavecylinderinstall04.jpg\|frame\|center]]
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		+	Now bolt on the bell housing, with fork and throwout bering in place.
		+	my fork seemed to be rubbing the housing, '''so I ground a chunk out like this...'''
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		+	[[Image:chunkgrinding.jpg\|frame\|center]]

← Older revision		Revision as of 16:06, 20 January 2007
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	[[Image:problem02.jpg\|frame\|center]]		[[Image:problem02.jpg\|frame\|center]]
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		+	As you can see, the slave will bolt into both positions, but on the eagle the front axle and driveshaft are in the way, so the upper position is mandatory.
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		+	So to fix it, I broke off the post for the pivot ball, and built my own by welding a bolt to a plate and pressing the old pivot onto the bolt. Then I used self tapping screws through predrilled holes to mount the new pivot in the right position for the upper mount configuration. I would give measurements, but I didn’t measure, I just eyeballed it, I tend to get better results that way.(space and time alter when Im around a welder) '''when done it looked like this…..'''
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		+	[[Image:slavecylinderinstall01.jpg\|frame\|center]]
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		+	[[Image:slavecylinderinstall02.jpg\|frame\|center]]
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		+	[[Image:slavecylinderinstall03.jpg\|frame\|center]]
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		+	[[Image:slavecylinderinstall04.jpg\|frame\|center]]