Eaglepedia - User contributions [en]

How to Make Power Window Cables

2012-11-27T16:50:12Z

Whuntmore:

Submitted by amceaglenest.com member ammachine390.

My window cable seized the other day, didn't really want to spend 80+ dollars from the old Jeep dealer for one replacement. A little bit of research, and I discovered that the power seat cables from 80s/90s GM products are VERY similar. Went to the junkyard today, and there were plenty Regals/Cutlasses/Impalas/Caprices to choose from. I found some from a 90s Caprice. As I took them out, they were NOT a direct replacement for our window cables like I had thought they were. I figured I could modify them to work though, so I got 2 of them, 1 that was slightly longer than our window cables, and 1 short one, just to mess around with the clips to see how I could take them apart without ruining the one I actually wanted to use.

[[Image:pwc1.jpg]]

Heres the 3 cables all next to each other. The 2 on the left are from the Chevy, the right one is the original AMC one. As you can see, the black clips are identical, however the chevy ones have the white clip which our cars don't use. Also, the actual cable sticks out farther on the AMC one, than on the chevy one. So when the chevy one plugs into the regulator, it doesn't grab, it just spins. So the cable needs to stick further out of the bracket.

So, I used a cold chisel to split the white bracket off since it was unneeded. Once that is off, you can see this little plastic nut thing. (this picture shows the green cable, as thats what I practiced this on first, same method applies to the blue cable)

[[Image:pwc2.jpg]]

[[Image:pwc3.jpg]]

The little plastic nut unscrews, turning it clockwise unscrews it. Once thats unscrewed, the cable can be pushed out of sheathing a little bit, to reveal the little plastic nut on the black bracket side. I then screwed this nut further in (turning it counterclockwise). The pushed the cable back into the sheathing, now the cable sticks out past the bracket the same amount as the AMC cable.

[[Image:pwc4.jpg]]

Then, I pulled the little plastic cylinder that keeps the bracket (the one that connects to the motor, and holds the motor in place in the door) off of the AMC cable. Here it is off the cable.

[[Image:pwc5.jpg]]

And next to the new cable.

[[Image:pwc6.jpg]]

I had to take off some of sheathing, so that I could screw in the plastic nut in far enough, to have enough cable stick out.

The cable is not square throughout the whole length, it becomes round. The plastic nut, had to be screwed up into where the cable is round, but it doesn't grab there, so I put it where it needs to be, and put a dab of The Right Stuff RTV to keep it from sliding down.

[[Image:pwc7.jpg]]

Then I slid the old cylinder piece onto the new cable (make sure the metal bracket goes on before the plastic cylinder), I "glued" on with some RTV around the edges, and inside.

And here is the final product. Looks pretty close to the original cable, except is blue, and is a little bit longer. The RTV doesn't hold exactly the way I wanted it to, and the cable can just slide out from the cylinder. But I don't think it will be an issue as the cable sits in pretty far, and would take a large force to come out. But if it does comes out, I can just stick it back into the motor, and then tape the cylinder to the sheathing. (Hope that made sense).

[[Image:pwc8.jpg]]

It's all back together, and the window rolls up and down great.

Hope this helps everyone who needs a cable and doesn't want to find and pay a large amount for a replacement one.

How To Upgrade Your Valve Cover

2012-11-27T16:48:08Z

Whuntmore: Reverted edits by Smitch (Talk); changed back to last version by Way2phastphil

If you have a '81 thru '86 258 with a plastic valve cover it leaks. AMC could not fix it and the only way you can is to replace with an aftermarket extruded aluminum one. Although a labor intensive upgrage it is fairly easy and should be the first thing you do for your AMC Eagle. You should plan to do this over a two or three day period, you will see why later.

'''BUYER BEWARE: Some vendors market metal valve covers, typically in the $50 range, that state they will fit all 258's from perhaps the late 70's to around 1986. These WILL NOT fit your '81 - '86 258. They only work on the 1980 and older engines. The one that we need must say its for the years '81 - 86 (and sometimes '87). They range in price from around $80 - $110. '''

Representative photo of the cover you will need. There are a few different brands available. This is just the one I used and it ran around $90; but I see right now it is going for $100.

[[Image:repphoto.jpg]]

Links to some vendors -- there are probably others. Clicking on a link will probably take you out of the Eaglepedia so you will need to log back on.

http://www.yourcovers.com/vc_8656.shtml

http://www.jeep4x4center.com/cj7/valve_covers.htm

http://www.thejeep.net/catalog/default.php?cPath=27

http://www.quadratec.com/cgi-bin/sgsh0101.exe

An up front warning -- there was no rhyme or reason as to what holes AMC tapped for attaching replacement valve covers. Some have them all tapped while others varied. There are a couple of ways to tackle the untapped hole issue: 1) [[#Tapping Holes]] or 2) [[#Stud Alternative]]

The task at hand, getting rid of this:

[[Image:Valvecover1.jpg]]

'''Tools Needed''' This is not an all inclusive list but should help. PATIENCE! You will also need a basic mechanics hand tool set with with 3/8 and 1/4 drives; SAE sockets, and SAE open end/box wrenches. A 1/2 drive with an extension may make removing the nuts on the driver's side easier (This is one place you could use air tools - but just for removal). Drive extensions will be helpful. A cordless screw driver with SAE sockets may speed the process along. Air tools are not needed. Masking tape to mark hoses and wires with. Putty knife or scraper. Clean grease rags/shop towels. Depending how you will add the missing bolts you will need the items discussed in either the [[#Tapping Holes]] or [[#Stud Alternative]] articles. And, did I mention PATIENCE!

Besides the valve cover and gasket you will need some RTV Red sealer. Get two tubes.

There is a lot of stuff in the way of your valve cover and this is what makes it so labor intensive.

First disconnect your battery.

You will want to first mark both ends of every vacuum line you want to move out of the way. I used masking tape and numbered the ends.

One of your AC hoses may be in the way too. You may have to remove your compressor from the engine and move it out of the way with the hoses attached. This also involves removing your [[Alternator Belt]] This is a good time to replace your belts.

Also you need to disconnect the fuel line and remove any other item which will impede the removal and installation. You will thank your self for this as the job progresses.

Make sure everything attached to the old cover is also removed.

Also, remove the wiper motor completely -- this is easy, four bolts and a clip that secures the motor shaft to the wiper transmission. Or see: '''[[Wiper Motor R&R]]'''

Lastly, tie a rope around the wire loom (you may want to remove one or two of the loom retainers on the fire wall) and carefully pull it up and out of the way as far as you can. Secure the rope, I used the back bumper.

Now you should be able to actually remove the the valve cover. It is probably attached with a bolt in the back, one in the front and 3 on the passenger side. On the driver's side you will need to remove the larger nuts and retaining washers.

Even with all that you have done to provide working room getting the old one off will take some maneuvering -- tipping it towards the passenger side to clear the rocker bridges will probably work best.

Finally it is off -- reward yourself.

[[Image:off.jpg]]

CAUTION: As soon as you have the valve cover off, put some clean rags over any openings in the head. This will help prevent any debris, gasket pieces, silicone, tools etc, from falling into the engine. When you are ready to install the new gasket, carefully remove the rags. Make sure that you don’t drop anything into the engine.

Thoroughly clean the mating surface on your head to prep it for the new cover.

First determine which holes are not tapped. Probably the ones on the driver's side then decide which way you want to tackle the untapped holes; see: 1) [[#Tapping Holes]] or 2) [[#Stud Alternative]] .

Once you have completed your attachment mods you are ready to proceed with putting the new valve cover on.

The instructions that came with your new cover will probably say to attach the gasket to the cover first. DON'T DO THIS! First, put your red gasket goop on the head and put the new gasket on it, lining everything up. Finger tighten the bolts to hold it in place and leave it alone for 24 hours.

Next day. Check your work - make sure the JB weld is fully cured. Remove the bolts that held the gasket in place. Place a bead of your gasket goop on the top of the gasket.

Carefully, and this will again take some finesse place the new valve cover in place. Snug down the nuts and bolts but do not over tighten. Just tighten to the point where it is good and snug.

Walk away for 24 hours for the goop to fully cure.

Next day. Resnug your fasteners. They will probably only need a little bit of retorquing.

Replace everything else make sure it all goes back as it was before -- hence all the prep work at first.

When you are sure you have it all done, reconnect your battery and fire her up. Check for leaks. If you took your time you will probably have none.

[[Image:finish02.jpg]]

[[Image:finish03.jpg]]

== Tapping Holes ==

''Contributed by AMC1''

Tapping the (5) 5/16” diameter holes for the cast aluminum valve cover:

Confidence factor: This was my first and successful attempt at tapping a hole...much less attempt (5) on my first try in a cylinder head. I was absolutely paranoid about breaking a tap in a hole and that paranoia will show in my procedure for tapping hole #1. All holes are the same. The procedure for subsequent holes will change only in the fact that you will be quickly become more experienced and save time without working harder. I do not want to necessarily volunteer my services to do this job since there are no guarantees in life. Having said that...if I had a friend who had to do this job...and I could see they were as apprehensive about this as I was...I would now have no problem in saying: “Bring it over and I’ll do it for you.”

Time factor: Hole #1 (passenger side front) took (3) hours. Hole #2 took (1) hour. Hole #3 took 1/2 hour and was the most difficult to do. Unless you have the automobile hood removed, you will not be working on this hole from overhead, rather on an angle. It is closer to the firewall and the wiring loom will be in the way in that it will prevent you from using 360 arcs on the tap handle... 180 degree arcs will be sufficient however. Also at that angle, your perspective of what is a perpendicular (straight) line to the hole and cylinder head may not be accurate. I was able to quickly correct myself with no damage being done because I was going slow, especially at the begining of a hole. Holes #4 and #5 took only 20 minutes each.

Taps: The instruction sheet says to use a “bottom” tap. This of course is all right if all the holes have a chamfer on the top of them. All of mine were not chamfered so I used a “taper” tap on those to begin the operation before switching over to the “bottom” tap. It does not complicate the operation and does help in attaining an original straight line into the hole.

Tools & Cost: (1) 5/16-18 hss (high speed steel) hand tap taper tap @ $2.15
(1) 5/16-18 hss with tin (titanium nitrate coating) hand tap bottom tap @
$5.80
(1) 1/4”-1/2” capacity T-handle plain tap wrench @ $3.23
shipping cost @ $5.35
Toal Cost $16.53

Procedure:
Clean the hole using a cotton “Q” tip.

Insert taper tap into handle making sure it is secure and tight. Do not push it too far into
the handle or it will lose it’s grip. Dip the head of the taper tap into any kind of household oil. I used clean oil however since I didn’t want to unnecessarily contanimate the tap or hole. Insert taper tap to hole and while keeping it absolutely straight to the best of your abilityturn it 1/64 - 1/32 of an inch. Back-off taper tap and wait a few seconds.
Keep doing this until the tap starts to take cuts.

When the cuts start to happen and after you have backed it off...even more slowly turn the tap forward to the previous cut until you feel the place where you left off. Slowly turn it in again to the metal and continue taking 1/64 - 1/32 inch cuts. Continue backing it off after each cut. The tap may becoome loose because of all the backing-off of the tap...simply retighten it but away from the hole. At some point you will have at least one or two threads...that is all you will have needed from this taper tap. Clean the hole and threads with the Q tip but make sure the Q tip has been wiped clean or use a new one. Install bottom tap in wrench and oil the tap. Start the same procedure over again. Continue the same procedure as above.

You will now be getting a feeling of the cutting and when you meet a slightly different feeling of resistance it is time to remove the tap... clean the tap... and clean the hole with it’s new threads. I did this frequently.

The bottom tap may become loose from the hande as did the taper tap. You may not notice, but if the tap is too loose, the handle will turn but not the tap. For most of the operation, I actually held a large magnifying glass in my left hand and turned the handle containing the tap in my right hand. Do not attempt to retighten the tap to the handle while the tap is still inserted in the hole. Remove it first, always using the opportunity to clean the threads and hole.

After a few threads have been attained using the bottom tap, it is time to consider when to stop. The hole is 1/2” in depth but the bottom of the hole has a slght taper from the original drilling When you get to a depth of 3/8” the tap will meet severe resistance. I”m sure at this point many people have broken a tap. I felt that if I continued I would be using the bottom threading tap at the lower end of the hole to increase the hole diameter. For subsequent holes, I put a piece of tape at the 3/8” point on the tap to warn me that this point was approaching. I left it there and in all (5) holes I met this point of severe resistance at exactly the same 3/8” depth.

When through...I cleaned the holes with a “Q” tip...blew them out with an air hose...and took a good deep look...they looked like a real professional did the job...not an amateur like me.

Lastly I lightly oiled the bolts and installed them...they fit perfect...straight and solidly tight. No wrench was needed to install the bolts. Remember how easy they go in. Later, when installing the valve cover, they should go in just as easy. If not, you have problems with the gasket or valve cover itself. That was a different problem however.

(Note) I eventually gained alot of time by reducing the waiting time between backing-off the tap from a cut...waiting a few seconds...and advancing the tap in the hole again. I originally thought the waiting time would help cool-off the tap. In reality, since the cuts are short in distance and I was using oil and I was also removing the tap frequently enough for cleaning or re-tightening, it wasn’t getting hot enough to break. Also, if I did increase the amount of cut I was taking during the job, it probably wasn’t to more than 1/16”to 3/32” total. Don’t get overconfident and go too fast.

Have fun...I did (starting on hole #2) AMC1 <Bob Lavine>

== Stud Alternative ==

What I did was to purchase 4 short 1/4" diameter double ended studs as you will want to do this on the back one too and 4 of those round nuts (hex nuts will not clear) with the flat sides for a wrench to fit - better yet get the ones with the hex hole on top (really handy for the back one). Thoroughly degrease the holes, grind one end of the studs for the driver's side hole so they will fit snugly (you can screw the back one in) and then JB weld them in place (do not use the quick set JB weld)-- let these set up for a while until they don't wiggle.

Re&Re The Wiring Harness in Your Steering Column

2012-11-26T23:57:39Z

Whuntmore:

By AMC Eagle Nest Member "Obscurity".

Here is how to re&re the wiring harness in your steering column. This will also help with steering wheel removal. I appologise for all of the non technical language, but the pictures should help fill in the blanks.
There are unfortunately special tools needed for this job:
Compressor tool (~$25 CAD)
Steering wheel or Harmonic balancer puller tool (~$20CAD)
Both of these are tools that you’ll probably never use again, and if you do…well, that may not necessarily be a good thing.

1) First order of business is to disconnect the wiring harness at the bottom. This will prevent any electrical mishaps and prevent your horn from honking when you’re messing with things at the beginning. It isn’t really necessary to unplug the battery, though if you feel more comfortable doing that, then by all means do it.

[[Image:Pic1.jpg]]

2) Remove the horn cover piece and you will see three big screws and three small screws, unscrew them and remove the pieces one at a time. Don’t forget to have a place to put them in order of removal, it helps putting it all back together.

[[Image:pic2.jpg]]

Next you remove the big bolt in the centre….I used a 13/16 ratchet. nice and easy after the initial tug.

[[Image:pic3.jpg]]

3) Once you get this bolt off you have to get out your puller, or what every you’ve managed to fabricate for the job.

[[Image:pic4.jpg]]

4) Pop off the steering wheel, put it aside and you’ll be facing a couple of circular plastic bits (see…I’m technical), pull these off and put aside, keep in mind that the one on top has three grooves in it, this is where your steering wheel fits, so you’ll have to line them up later (I almost forgot to, which is why I mention it).

[[Image:pic5.jpg]]

5) Next you get to play with that funky compression tool to depress that metal plate you’ve got in front of you. Don’t forget that it is shaped and has gaps in specific areas, you’ll need to put it back on that way. Here is the compression tool in action:

[[Image:pic6.jpg]]

6) Here is the fun part, removal of the snap ring. It's revealed once the compression tool has pushed things as far as it can without breaking anything. I used needle nose pliers, and two small screwdrivers to coax it up the shaft. I managed to keep it reusable that way since I forgot to buy a new one. I recommend stopping and grabbing a beer at this point since you’ll probably get quite irritated and swear a lot. Once you’ve found the exact way to hold your tongue it's easy. Unfortunately I was unable to take pics of this procedure as I don’t have enough limbs to operate the camera and the tools.

7) Now you are facing the signal/hazard switch assembly, there is a big spring in the middle too, which you can leave right there. You need to remove the three screws that are in the body of this mechanism (which is two pieces that fit quite snugly together, so keep them that way), and the screw that attaches the signal switch itself to the plastic assembly, try not to let this little piece fall off, it’s a pain to get back on. Also remove the hazard switch from the outside of the column. You can’t get it out without doing this...trust me.

[[Image:pic7.jpg]]

Here comes the inventive bit. Wrap tape around the wiring harness that comes out of the bottom of the column, and put a piece of string around it.

[[Image:pic8.jpg]]

Now, take a piece of wire, tie some more string to it and feed it from the top of the steering column down through to the wiring harness, attach the string to the piece of the harness that will be going through first. The place you feed it through is right by where the wires run…don’t worry you’ll see it. Now you’ve got string on both ends of the plastic block and everything is taped up to make a nice sleek package

[[Image:pic9.jpg]]

9) You have to pull on the string at the top, and the signal switch assembly, and use the top string to help manipulate things if it gets a little stuck along the way. I also used a screw driver from above once it was getting close and got a little stuck. Once again, once you figure the exact way to hold your tongue you’re doing great.

10) Now you’ll probably have some string hanging out the lower end of your column that is attached to the wiring harness in your hand….cut it from the old wiring harness and attach it to the new one. Tape it all up and pull it down through the column…reverse of how you got it out (this direction is MUCH smoother).

11) Fit the new/salvaged signal switch into the place of the previous one, pull that little metal bit for the signal switch up, it’ll help hold things in place. Put the three screws back in, lightly snug them down, put the screw in for the signal switch.

12) This is where I recommend that you plug the harness in and test everything before you get too far into reassembly. I didn’t get electrocuted, so you should be fine. Also, get out of the car and make sure its really working and not just blinking inside the car. If you’ve got a problem with the signal switch not turning off properly, or being too sloppy it may be the metal parts on the right hand side of the plastic assembly (between 3o’clock and 6 on the wheel). If you have to you can take these out carefully and bend them a little extra so they tighten up, or use the ones out of the recently removed harness if they worked ok before. Once you’re sure everything is working, snug the screws up some more, and put things back together.

13) Putting it together is reverse of taking it apart, just don’t forget to align everything properly, and also put the snap ring onto the centre shaft loosely before you connect your compression tool, makes life easier. Another hint…disconnect the harness for the reassembly, once again, it prevents lots of random honking and angry neighbors.

Re&Re The Wiring Harness in Your Steering Column

2012-11-26T23:56:48Z

Whuntmore: Reverted edits by Whuntmore (Talk); changed back to last version by Smitch

By AMC Eagle Nest Member "Obscurity".

Heree again, it prevents lots of random honking and angry neighbors.

Re&Re The Wiring Harness in Your Steering Column

2012-11-26T23:55:46Z

Whuntmore: revert what smitch did

Revision as of 15:58, 23 April 2010

By AMC Eagle Nest Member "Obscurity".

Here is how to re&re the wiring harness in your steering column. This will also help with steering wheel removal. I appologise for all of the non technical language, but the pictures should help fill in the blanks. There are unfortunately special tools needed for this job: Compressor tool (~$25 CAD) Steering wheel or Harmonic balancer puller tool (~$20CAD) Both of these are tools that you’ll probably never use again, and if you do…well, that may not necessarily be a good thing.
1) First order of business is to disconnect the wiring harness at the bottom. This will prevent any electrical mishaps and prevent your horn from honking when you’re messing with things at the beginning. It isn’t really necessary to unplug the battery, though if you feel more comfortable doing that, then by all means do it.

2) Remove the horn cover piece and you will see three big screws and three small screws, unscrew them and remove the pieces one at a time. Don’t forget to have a place to put them in order of removal, it helps putting it all back together.

Next you remove the big bolt in the centre….I used a 13/16 ratchet. nice and easy after the initial tug.

3) Once you get this bolt off you have to get out your puller, or what every you’ve managed to fabricate for the job.

4) Pop off the steering wheel, put it aside and you’ll be facing a couple of circular plastic bits (see…I’m technical), pull these off and put aside, keep in mind that the one on top has three grooves in it, this is where your steering wheel fits, so you’ll have to line them up later (I almost forgot to, which is why I mention it).

5) Next you get to play with that funky compression tool to depress that metal plate you’ve got in front of you. Don’t forget that it is shaped and has gaps in specific areas, you’ll need to put it back on that way. Here is the compression tool in action:

6) Here is the fun part, removal of the snap ring. It's revealed once the compression tool has pushed things as far as it can without breaking anything. I used needle nose pliers, and two small screwdrivers to coax it up the shaft. I managed to keep it reusable that way since I forgot to buy a new one. I recommend stopping and grabbing a beer at this point since you’ll probably get quite irritated and swear a lot. Once you’ve found the exact way to hold your tongue it's easy. Unfortunately I was unable to take pics of this procedure as I don’t have enough limbs to operate the camera and the tools.
7) Now you are facing the signal/hazard switch assembly, there is a big spring in the middle too, which you can leave right there. You need to remove the three screws that are in the body of this mechanism (which is two pieces that fit quite snugly together, so keep them that way), and the screw that attaches the signal switch itself to the plastic assembly, try not to let this little piece fall off, it’s a pain to get back on. Also remove the hazard switch from the outside of the column. You can’t get it out without doing this...trust me.

Here comes the inventive bit. Wrap tape around the wiring harness that comes out of the bottom of the column, and put a piece of string around it.

Now, take a piece of wire, tie some more string to it and feed it from the top of the steering column down through to the wiring harness, attach the string to the piece of the harness that will be going through first. The place you feed it through is right by where the wires run…don’t worry you’ll see it. Now you’ve got string on both ends of the plastic block and everything is taped up to make a nice sleek package

9) You have to pull on the string at the top, and the signal switch assembly, and use the top string to help manipulate things if it gets a little stuck along the way. I also used a screw driver from above once it was getting close and got a little stuck. Once again, once you figure the exact way to hold your tongue you’re doing great.
10) Now you’ll probably have some string hanging out the lower end of your column that is attached to the wiring harness in your hand….cut it from the old wiring harness and attach it to the new one. Tape it all up and pull it down through the column…reverse of how you got it out (this direction is MUCH smoother).
11) Fit the new/salvaged signal switch into the place of the previous one, pull that little metal bit for the signal switch up, it’ll help hold things in place. Put the three screws back in, lightly snug them down, put the screw in for the signal switch.
12) This is where I recommend that you plug the harness in and test everything before you get too far into reassembly. I didn’t get electrocuted, so you should be fine. Also, get out of the car and make sure its really working and not just blinking inside the car. If you’ve got a problem with the signal switch not turning off properly, or being too sloppy it may be the metal parts on the right hand side of the plastic assembly (between 3o’clock and 6 on the wheel). If you have to you can take these out carefully and bend them a little extra so they tighten up, or use the ones out of the recently removed harness if they worked ok before. Once you’re sure everything is working, snug the screws up some more, and put things back together.
13) Putting it together is reverse of taking it apart, just don’t forget to align everything properly, and also put the snap ring onto the centre shaft loosely before you connect your compression tool, makes life easier. Another hint…disconnect the harness for the reassembly, once again, it prevents lots of random honking and angry neighbors.

How To Manually Shift the Transfer Case

2012-11-26T23:53:22Z

Whuntmore: Reverted edits by Smitch (Talk); changed back to last version by IowaEagle

Here is a quick way to shift your transfer case into either 4WD or 2WD should your vacuum system fail. This includes those times when your system has put the Transfer Case into "False Neutral".

'''Note:''' If your Eagle has a transfer case skid plate it will have to be removed first.

Tools Needed: 9/16" wrench. Wheel blocks. A light source may be helpful.

1. Start car and engage shift lever into the mode you will be manually shifting your car into. We suggest into the 2WD if you are checking to see if the transfer case is in "false neutral".

2. Shut off car. Block the wheels so the car will not roll forward or backwards.

3. With your wrench in hand get under the driver's side of the car.

4. Identify the transfer case selector lever (see picture below). Its a vertical flat piece of metal directly to the rear of the shift motor.

5. At the bottom of the lever there is a bolt head. Place your wrench on the bolt head.

[[Image:shiftlever.jpg]]

6. Moving the lever back (clock wise) will engage 2WD. Moving the lever forward (counter clockwise) will engage 4 WD. Do not loosen this bolt. Just turn it far enough to ensure the lever is fully engaged in the desired mode. The lever should move quite easily.

7. Remove wheel blocks.

8. Start car and test for proper operation.

9. Do not operate select shift lever until you have repaired the system.

AMC Eagles Den members and their Eagles

2012-11-22T06:08:57Z

Whuntmore: Reverted edits by Smitch (Talk); changed back to last version by Petr

<center> '''Member Index''' </center>

<center> [[Petr]] </center>

<center> [[IowaEagle]] </center>

<center> [[AKAMC]] </center>

<center> [[jim]] </center>

<center> [[Jurjen]] </center>

<center> [[pLaYtHiNg]] </center>

<center> [[Eagleone]] </center>

<center> [[mominkie]] </center>

<center> [[Matey]] </center>

<center> [[mudkicker715]] </center>

<center> [[bigdog56e]] </center>

<center> [[rmedon]] </center>

<center> [[DESA ]] </center>

<center> [[svoman2300]] </center>

<center> [[Captcarl]] </center>

<center> [[Allend 1780]] </center>

<center> [[CadillakJak]] </center>

<center> [[akraider]] </center>

<center> [[ben]] </center>

<center> [[Kat]] </center>

<center> [[John]] </center>

<center> [[3 Eagle Feathers]] </center>

<center> [[Tougeagle]] </center>

<center> [[philotomy]] </center>

<center> [[big iron]] </center>

<center> [[Adrian]] </center>

<center> [[Brian]] </center>

1988 Large Electrical Schematics - Much applicable to other years.

2012-11-22T06:08:00Z

Whuntmore: Reverted edits by Smitch (Talk); changed back to last version by IowaEagle

Provided by AMC Eagle Nest Member L. Loveland. These are much larger than found in a TSM. Although for a 1988 AMC Eagle Wagon, much of this will be applicable to earlier models. So use it to compare with what you have before making repairs/modifications.

[[Component Part Index]]

[[Component Schematics]]

[[6 Cylinder Engine Wiring Schematic]]

[[6 Cylinder EEC Module Wiring Schematic]]

[[A/C System Wiring Schematic]]

[[Instrument Cluster Wiring Schematic]]

[[Optional Gauge Package Wiring Schematic]]

[[Factory Fog Lamp Wiring Schematic]]

[[Radio Wiring Schematic]]

[[Rear Window Defogger Wiring Schematic]]

[[Turn/Hazard Signal Wiring Schematic]]

[[Standard Light Group; Rear Deck Release; and Horn Wiring Schematics]]

[[Optional Light Group Wiring Schematic]]

[[Clock and Power Mirrors Wiring Schematics]]

[[Trailer Wiring Schematic]]

[[Rear Window Wiper Wiring Schematic]]

[[Power Seats Wiring Schematic]]

[[Cruise Command Wiring Schematic]]

[[Auto Level Wiring Schematic]]

[[Power Windows and Door Locks Wiring Schematic]]

[[Stop Lights and Back-Up Lights Wiring Schematics]]

[[Lighting Wiring Schematic]]

[[Keyless Entry with Power Windows Wiring Schematic]]

1984 - 1988 Factory Parts Catalog

2012-11-22T06:07:38Z

Whuntmore: Reverted edits by Smitch (Talk); changed back to last version by IowaEagle

Thanks goes out to AMC Eagle Nest Member Eagle88 for scanning this factory parts catalog for the 1984 - 1988 models (though much here will work for earlier models).

This catalog will eventually replace our microfiche scans as the scans from a paper copy catalog are better quality and there are pages here not found in the microfiche collection. As I place the pages here that are already in the microfiche collection I will delete the images in that collection to save our storage space.

<center> [[Cover, General Catalog Information and Indexes]] </center>

<center> [[Section 10, Engine Block Components]] </center>

<center> [[Section 11, Engine Components]] </center>

<center> [[Section 12, Manifolds and Carburetors]] </center>

<center> [[Section 13, Emission Controls, PCV System, Pulse Air, Evap. Canister, P/S Pump & A/C Comp.]] </center>

<center> [[Section 16, Alternator, Starter & Pulleys]] </center>

<center> [[Section 17, Ignition Components and MCU]] </center>

<center> [[Section 19, Radiator, Fuel Tank & Lines, Exhaust, and Engine Mounts]] </center>

<center> [[Section 21, Manual Transmissions]] </center>

<center> [[Sections 23 & 24, Automatic Transmissions]] </center>

<center> [[Section 25, Transfer Case]] </center>

<center> [[Section 26, Front Drive Shafts and Axle]] </center>

<center> [[Section 27, Rear Drive Shaft and Axle]] </center>

<center> [[Section 31, Front Suspension and Front Hub w/Rotor]] </center>

<center> [[Section 32, Front Shocks, Stabilizer and Front Brakes]] </center>

<center> [[Sections 33 & 34, Rear Springs, Shocks, Stabilizer and Rear Brakes]] </center>

<center> [[Section 35, Wheel Covers and Jack]] </center>

<center> [[Section 36, Steering Gear, Steering Columns and Steering Wheels]] </center>

<center> [[Section 37, Brake, Clutch, Accelerator Linkages; Brake Master Cylinder, Lines and Hoses]] </center>

<center> [[Section 38, Parking Brake, Manuual and Auto Shifters; Transfer Case Lines and Hoses (both types of select shift) ]] </center>

<center> [[Sections 39, 41 & 42, Skid Plates, Floor Pans, Dash and Cowel Panels, Front Panels and Wheel Housings]] </center>

<center> [[Sections 43, 44, 46 & 42, Side, Rear and Roof Panels and Front Fenders]] </center>

<center> [[Sections 47 & 48, Side, Door, Hood, Trunk and Lift Gate Panels and Hinges]] </center>

<center> [[Sections 50 & 53, Door Components (locks, glass, mechanisms, handles, etc.) ]] </center>

<center> [[Section 54 Glass ]] </center>

<center> [[Section 55 Bumpers, Trim, Mouldings, Decals, Pinstripes and Grille ]] </center>

<center> [[Section 56 Nameplates, Badges and Exterior Mirrors]] </center>

<center> [[Section 57 Instrument Panel and Dash]] </center>

<center> [[Section 58 Inside Mirror, Floor Console and Visors]] </center>

<center> [[Section 59 Seat Belts, Trailer Hitch, Engine Heater and Luggage Racks]] </center>

<center> [[Sectios 60 and 61,Heating Systems]] </center>

<center> [[Section 62 Air Conditioning and Control Systems]] </center>

<center> [[Sections 64, 65 and 66, Body/Window Seals and Plugs]] </center>

<center> [[Sections 68, and 69, Insulation, Carpets and Mats]] </center>

<center> [[Sections 71, and 72, Interior Trim, Headliners, Sun Roof, Cargo Cover and Door Panels]] </center>

<center> [[Sections 77, 76, 77, and 78, Seats]] </center>

<center> [[Sections 80, 81, and 82, Battery Tray, Head, Fog, Parking, Marker Rear and Dome Lams, and Horn]] </center>

<center> [[Sections 83, and 84, Instrument Cluster, Gauge Package, Speedometer Cable, and Cruise Control]] </center>

<center> [[Sections 84, 85, and 86, Ignition Lock, Dash Switches, Windshield Wipers and Washer, Misc. Switches, and Audio Systems ]] </center>

<center> [[Sections 87, 88, and 89, Fuse Panel, Relays, Wiring Harnesses and Misc. Connectors ]] </center>

1979 - 1983 Factory Parts Catalog

2012-11-22T06:07:15Z

Whuntmore: Reverted edits by Smitch (Talk); changed back to last version by IowaEagle

We have scanned nearly every page of the 2 volume paper catalog. We HIGHLY suggest that if you have not used this catalog before that you read thru Section A to familiarize yourself with how it works. Once you get the hang of how AMC did things using this catalog will be easier.

'''NOTE: This catalog is still under construction. It consists of two huge documents so it will take time to get it scanned and uploaded in its entirety.'''

<center> [[Section A - General Information]] </center>

<center> [[Sections B & C - Alphabetical Index]] </center>

<center> [[Group 1 Engine]] </center>

<center> [[Group 2 Cooling - Grille]] </center>

<center> [[Group 3 Electrical -- Instruments]] </center>

<center> [[Group 4 Fuel -- Exhaust -- Emission]] </center>

<center> [[Group 5 Clutch]] </center>

<center> [[Group 6 Manual Transmission]] </center>

<center> [[Group 7 Shifting]] </center>

<center> [[Group 8 Brakes -- Wheels]] </center>

<center> [[Group 9 Axles -- Propeller Shafts]] </center>

<center> [[Group 10 Front Suspension -- Power Steering -- Steering Gear]] </center>

<center> [[Group 11 Road Springs -- Shocks -- Rear Suspension]] </center>

<center> [[Group 12 Hood -- Fenders --Bumpers]] </center>

<center> [[Group 13 Heater -- Air Conditioning]] </center>

<center> [[Group 14 Chassis Miscellaneous]] </center>

<center> [[Group 15 Accessories]] </center>

<center> [[Group 16 Automatic Transmission]] </center>

<center> There is no Group 17 </center>

<center> [[Group 18 Transfer Case]] </center>

<center> There is no Group 19 </center>

<center> [[Group 20 Body Sheet Metal]] </center>

<center> There is no Group 21 </center>

<center> [[Group 22 Window Wiper -- Cowl Vent -- Instrument Panel]] </center>

<center> [[Group 23 Doors -- Hardware]] </center>

<center> [[Group 24 Rear Quarter Hardware]] </center>

<center> [[Group 25 Glass -- Channels]] </center>

<center> [[Group 26 Body Moldings]] </center>

<center> [[Group 27 Body Hardware]] </center>

<center> [[Group 28 Sun Roof]] </center>

<center> [[Group 29 Seats -- Soft Trim]] </center>

<center> [[Group 30 Body Miscellaneous]] </center>

<center> [[PAKS Packages -- Assemblies -- Kits -- Sets]] </center>

Part Numbers

2012-11-22T06:06:33Z

Whuntmore: Reverted edits by Smitch (Talk); changed back to last version by IowaEagle

We are going to attempt to post part numbers here for items as we find them. For ease of use I have used the parts categories used by Advance Auto Parts. Many part numbers will be theirs while others will be parts from other vendors and those will be noted by vendor name. We will also build a link index for vendors which have them. If your parts store does not carry a specific brand they can often cross reference another brand to what they carry.

<center>[[Vendor Links]]

[[Air Conditioning]]

[[Alternators & Charging]]

[[Batteries and Accessories]]

[[Belts and Hoses]]

[[Body and Trim Parts (Interior and Exterior)]]

[[Brake Drums and Rotors]]

[[Brake Hardware]]

[[Brake Hydraulics]]

[[Brake Pads and Shoes]]

[[Cables]]

[[Caps (Gas/Radiator/Oil, Etc.)]]

[[Carburetors & Parts]]

[[Chassis]]

[[Clutch, CV & Drive Shaft Parts]]

[[Cooling & Heating]]

[[Emissions]]

[[Engine Parts & Mounts]]

[[Exhaust]]

[[Filters & PCV Valves]]

[[Fuel Pumps & Tanks]]

[[Gaskets]]

[[Heating & Cooling]]

[[Ignition & Tune-Up]]

[[Lamps/Flashers/Fuses]]

[[Relays]]

[[Sensors]]

[[Shocks & Springs]]

[[Starters]]

[[Steering]]

[[Switches]]

[[Transmission Bearings & Seals]]

[[Transmission Parts]]

[[Wheel & Tire Parts]]

[[Wipers]]

</center>

Roy C. Lunn

2012-11-22T06:04:24Z

Whuntmore: Unprotected "Roy C. Lunn": was deleted by Smitch

''Information contained in this biography was recieved from Mr. Lunn in the fall of 2004 and is used with his permission.''

Roy C. Lunn was born in 1925 and was educated in England where he graduated in mechanical and aeronautical engineering. He served two years in the RAF as a UT pilot. After the war, in 1946, he entered the auto industry as a designer of AC cars and then went to Aston Maritin in 1947 where he became assistant chief designer and was responsible for the DB2 program. He joined Jewett Cars in 1949 as chief designer and was responsible for a range of vehicles which included the first plastic bodied car. He drove in competition and was co-driver to Marcel Becquart, driving to victory in the 1952 RAC International Rally. In 1953 he went to Ford of England and was assigned the task of starting a new research facility in Birmingham. This center generated the first prototype of what became the 105 E. Anglia.

Lunn was then transferred to Ford of Dagenham as the car product planning manager to follow the 105-E into production. He immigrated to the U.S. in 1958 to join Ford USA where he became the manager of the Ford Advanced Vehicle Center, working on a whole range of world-wide projects including: Mustang I; a super highway 170,000 pound GCW truck; and Ford's first front wheel drive car, the Cardinal, which became the Taunus 15-M in Germany.

In 1962 he became a U.S. citizen. Also, during the same year, he and part of his department were put on special assignment to design and develop a GT racing car to beat Ferrari and win the world GT championship. This became the GT-40, followed by the MK II and MK IV that won LeMans four times in succession between 1966 and 1969 and two world championships.

In 1971 Lunn joined American Motors as director of engineering for Jeep which had recently been acquired by AMC. He went on to become vice-president of engineering for AMC with his notable accomplishments being the Jeep XJ Cherokee which was the first of the modern range of SUV vehicles and the Eagle, which was America's first 4WD car. He was also active in the Society of Automotive Engineers becoming their chairman in 1983 and was elected a Fellow of the Society in 1985. He completed his career at AMC by forming and becoming president of Renault Jeep Sport to centralize all AMC and Renault racing activities in the U.S., including the design and production of a low-cost racing car for SCCA, of which more than 500 models have been built. In 1984 he headed the first American entry to drive in the Paris-Dakar rally.

He retired from AMC in 1985 and was immediately called back to become vice-president of engineering for the AM General Corporation (an AMC subsidiary), which was going into production of the HUMMER military vehicle. AMC was facing acceptance problems by the Army and asked Mr. Lunn to correct these problems. After overseeing the corrective actions Mr. Lunn finally retired to his home in Florida in 1987 and then to Italy in 2004, after having spent forty-one years in the design, development and production of automotive vehicles.

Mr. Lunn was in contact with AMC Eagle Nest Staff about two years ago (early 2004). He was very surprised to learn his AMC Eagle had such a following and he does visit the AMC Eagle Nest as a guest. Additionally, he sent to us, for safe keeping and to use to promote the existence of the AMC Eagle Nest some items he had saved regarding the development of the AMC Eagle. We extend our sincerest thanks to you, Mr. Lunn, for taking the time to share with us and for having the foresight and courage to design and implement the production of such a great vehicle! As you can see......we all really love our Eagles! Truely ahead of it's time and still leading the pack as far as we are concerned.

=== "Off Road Magazine" Four Wheel Drive Vehicle of the Year ===

[[Image:awardplaque.jpg]]

''This plaque was graciously given to the AMC Eagle Nest by Mr. Lunn for continued safe keeping.''

=== Mr. Lunn Presenting to the Society of Automotive Engineers ===

[[Image:rlpresenting.jpg]] [[Image:saecover.jpg]]

=== Mr. Lunn Recieving an Engineering Award from the Society of Automotive Engineers ===

[[Image:rlgettingaward.jpg]]

=== October, 1980 Auto Week Interview with Roy Lunn ===

[[Image:aw01.jpg]]

[[Image:aw02.jpg]]

[[Image:aw03.jpg]]

=== Other Roy Lunn info ===

Roy Lunn related links:

http://www.findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m3012/is_2_181/ai_70935228
http://www.channel4.com/4car/feature/topten/forgotten-4x4s/forgotten-4x4s-4.html
http://www.wagoneers.com/XJ/tech/xjmtr.html

"The Mustang I was an experimental mid-engined, two seated sports car aimed at the Triumph/MG market.

Since it was impossible to build a prototype very rapidly in Detroit, Ford contracted the job to specialist builder Trautman and Barnes in Los Angeles. Planned around a wheelbase of 85 - 90 inches, Mustang I had an engine of 1.5 - 2.0 litres in a steel tube frame covered by a stressed skin aluminium body. An integral rollbar and fixed seats added rigidity. Although the seats didn't adjust, the pedals and steering did, mounting on a sliding box member that allowed positioning to suit any driver.

Roy Lunn (product planner) and Herb Misch (engineer) devised the Mustang I's four wheel independent suspension, then an uncommon feature in Detroit. All shocks and springs were adjustable for ride height and firmness" http://www.allfordmustangs.com/Detailed/120.shtml

[[Image:mustang01.jpg]] [[Image:mustang02.jpg]]

"While the Ferrari negotiations were underway, Dearborn brass took steps to create their own racing program, ultimately forming the Britain-based Ford Advanced Vehicles division. Through the 1962 Mustang concept, Ford had already developed a relationship with Roy Lunn, an Englishman who started his career at Ford of Britain but came to the United States in 1958.
After working on the Mustang I, Roy Lunn, along with Ray Geddes and Donald Frey, turned toward the racing effort. They found that the "Grand Touring" car Ford conceived to win at Le Mans had much in common with the new Lola GT, a low-slung coupe developed by Eric Broadley in Slough, England, not the least of which was the American V-8 mounted amidships – a rarity for European cars of the time. http://www.ford-gt.com/concept/proud.html

'American Motors devoted three years to its development and, noted Roy Lunn, "unlike most engines available today [it] was not designed for passenger cars and then adapted for trucks. We specifically developed it with our Jeep vehicles and Eagle in mind. That's the reason that performance and durability were of such prime consideration from the very beginning." ' http://www.wagoneers.com/XJ/tech/XJmotors.html

"Roy Lunn
Roy Lunn was in the Design Office of Aston Martin in 1949/50, after which he became Chief Engineer at Jowett, and then joined Ford at Dagenham from where he transferred to Dearborn in the Research Division. His present position is Manager of Advanced Concepts, and in this capacity he worked with Ford Advanced Vehicles at Slough from August 1963/64, supervising the development of the cars up to the completion of the first prototype, and the modifications made for them in the early part of the 1964 racing season." http://www.gt40.co.uk/gt40st16.html

Oaky...I know this is not Eagle stuff but....It is Roy Lunn and a nice example of the man's genius:

"With those general parameters, the engineering department set out to craft the prototype for a project referred to as T-5. Three men quarterbacked the effort - Herb Misch, an engineer; Gene Bordinant, a stylist, and Roy Lunn, a product planner. In an unparalleled 21 days, the design for a low, sleek show car with roll bar and retractable headlights went from drawing board to clay mock-up. "

http://www.mocsem.com/proto.asp

Roy C. Lunn

2012-11-22T06:03:38Z

Whuntmore: Reverted edits by Smitch (Talk); changed back to last version by IowaEagle

Replacing Door Hinge Bushings

2012-08-17T18:07:42Z

Whuntmore:

'''NOTE:''' Hinges are reverse-able. Meaning that hinges from the passenger door can be put onto the driver's side door. Just flip them over. Now, you can NOT swap from front to back. Different hinges. So if you get a spare set of front door passenger hinges, you can exchange them for the driver's door hinges.

Also, when removing, consider doing one hinge at a time. That way re-alining is easier.

For example:

Punch out driver's top hinge pin. unbolt hinge from body and door. take passenger hinge (as a whole) and bolt it up (do not punch out pin). it should be very easy (or alot easier) to aline since you're only alining one hinge. once the door closes properly, now you can punch out the old pin, change bushings, and if pin and hinge has very little wear, grease pin, and re-install with new bushings.

repeat for bottom hinge.

by Whuntmore

By AMC Eagle Nest Member "Tennessee_Farmer".

Here are some tips when installing bushings in your Eagle car front door hinges. First of all, do not remove the hinges from the door or car body. It is not necessary, it is difficult to do, and you will have a hard time trying to realign the door. Merely open the door and prop it up with a jack or other supports to remove pressure from the hinges and brace it to hold the door upright. Use a blunt-end driving bar followed by a long needle-nose punch to drive out the hinge pins. Hold the driving bar against the protruding portion of the pin and drive hard with a hammer. The neck at the head end of the pin is splined and that’s what holds it in. Once you have driven the pin as far as it will go with the driving bar, the needle nose punch will help you finish the removal. You may need pliers or vise-grips to wiggle them out. Take the bottom one out first since this will help you with the top one. On the passenger side, it may appear that there is not enough clearance for the top one to come out, but if you move the door around, with the bottom pin removed, it will come out. Rest assured that the pins will come out. Remove both pins because you have to separate the entire door from the hinges to be able to replace the bushings. Drive out the old bushings. I suggest you replace all four bushings, even if some appear to be in reasonably good shape. This will ensure a tight door at the end.

Rarely are the hinge pins defective because they are made of hardened steel. The wear is almost always on the brass bushings, even if they are partially broken. In a severe case, the hinge itsself is enlarged and a replacement hinge likely will be needed. If the outside diameter of the replacement bushings are too large for the bushings to fit in the hole, you will need to file them. Do not attempt to hard-drive the bushings into the holes. If you try hard driving them, you may break them, or at a minimum, compress the bushing holes so the pins no longer fit. File the outside of the bushings until they can be driven into the hinge holes by gently tapping. Make certain that you do not file them so much that they rotate in the hole. You want the hinge pin to rotate in the bushing, not the bushing rotating in the hinge hole. Some advice on filing - I suggest you use a good flat file, a quarter inch or so triangular file, and a quarter inch round file. The flat file will help you remove material quickly, the triangular file will allow you to file close to the lip of the bushing without damaging it. If necessary, the round file will allow you to enlarge the bushing hole once installed if it gets compressed. The best way to file is to clamp the bushing in a benchvise. Make certain your pins are completely free of dirt and rust so this does not restrict entry into the bushing. Put grease in the bushings and on the hinge pins before reassembly.

As you might suspect, reinstalling the door is the hardest part of the job. Two people make it easier than one, however, I have always done mine alone. Four-door cars are easier than two-door ones because the doors are shorter. In fact, with a two-door, you should have a few choice words handy to help with the installation.

When you finish, your door should feel nice and tight and be properly aligned. The job really is not very complicated or time consuming.

If you do have a severely damaged pin, don’t install it in the new bushings. It will cause rapid wear to the bushings. However, I don’t think you will have this problem because the pins are made of hardened steel and usually don’t wear.

Fuel Pumps & Tanks

2012-05-10T17:22:48Z

Whuntmore: /* Fuel Tanks */

<center>Go Back To [[Part Numbers]] </center>

'''Note''' Unless otherwised indicated all Part Numbers are from Advance Auto Parts. Your favorite Parts Store should be able to cross reference them to the brands they carry.

==Fuel Tank Sending Units==

1980 - 1988 All 30 Series Cars (22 gallon tank): Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep: J3230700

1981 - 1983 All 50 Series Cars (21 gallon tank): Flotamex: F740 Flotamex

===Fuel Tanks===

-Gas Tank, Make '''Spectra''', Part# '''SPIAMC1'''

-Gas Tank Straps Make '''Spectra''', Part# '''ST103'''

-Gas Tank Hanger bolts. They don't come with the tank straps. Two are available. 1993 Cherokee bolts are slightly shorter, and 1993 Grand Cherokee are closer to proper length (I can't verify how close as I've never had them in my hands), but I know that the shorter Cherokee hanger bolts are just barely long enough.

<center>Go Back To [[Part Numbers]] </center>

Fuel Pumps & Tanks

2012-05-10T16:17:53Z

Whuntmore: /* Fuel Tanks */

<center>Go Back To [[Part Numbers]] </center>

'''Note''' Unless otherwised indicated all Part Numbers are from Advance Auto Parts. Your favorite Parts Store should be able to cross reference them to the brands they carry.

==Fuel Tank Sending Units==

1980 - 1988 All 30 Series Cars (22 gallon tank): Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep: J3230700

1981 - 1983 All 50 Series Cars (21 gallon tank): Flotamex: F740 Flotamex

===Fuel Tanks===

-Gas Tank, Make '''Spectra''', Part# '''SPIAMC1'''

-Gas Tank Straps Make '''Spectra''', Part# '''SP103'''

-Gas Tank Hanger bolts. They don't come with the tank straps. Two are available. 1993 Cherokee bolts are slightly shorter, and 1993 Grand Cherokee are closer to proper length (I can't verify how close as I've never had them in my hands), but I know that the shorter Cherokee hanger bolts are just barely long enough.

<center>Go Back To [[Part Numbers]] </center>

Fuel Pumps & Tanks

2012-05-10T16:16:14Z

Whuntmore: /* Fuel Tanks */

<center>Go Back To [[Part Numbers]] </center>

'''Note''' Unless otherwised indicated all Part Numbers are from Advance Auto Parts. Your favorite Parts Store should be able to cross reference them to the brands they carry.

==Fuel Tank Sending Units==

1980 - 1988 All 30 Series Cars (22 gallon tank): Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep: J3230700

1981 - 1983 All 50 Series Cars (21 gallon tank): Flotamex: F740 Flotamex

===Fuel Tanks===

-Gas Tank, Make '''Spectra''', Part# '''SPIAMC1'''

-Gas Tank Straps Make '''Spectra''', Part# '''SP103'''

-Gas Tank Hanger bolts. Hard to find. Two are available. 1993 Cherokee bolts are slightly shorter, and 1993 Grand Cherokee are closer to proper length (I can't verify how close as I've never had them in my hands), but I know that the shorter Cherokee hanger bolts are just barely long enough.

<center>Go Back To [[Part Numbers]] </center>

Fuel Pumps & Tanks

2012-05-10T16:15:35Z

Whuntmore: /* Fuel Tanks */

<center>Go Back To [[Part Numbers]] </center>

'''Note''' Unless otherwised indicated all Part Numbers are from Advance Auto Parts. Your favorite Parts Store should be able to cross reference them to the brands they carry.

==Fuel Tank Sending Units==

1980 - 1988 All 30 Series Cars (22 gallon tank): Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep: J3230700

1981 - 1983 All 50 Series Cars (21 gallon tank): Flotamex: F740 Flotamex

===Fuel Tanks===

-Gas Tank, Make '''Spectra''', Part# '''SPIAMC1'''

-Gas Tank Straps Make '''Spectra''', Part# '''SP103'''

-Gas Tank Hanger bolts. Hard to find. Two are available. 1993 Cherokee bolts are slightly shorter, and 1993 Grand Cherokee are closer to proper length (I can't verify how close as I've never had them in my hands, but I know that the shorter Cherokee hanger bolts are just barely long enough.

<center>Go Back To [[Part Numbers]] </center>

Vacuum Lines Made simple

2011-08-01T15:01:46Z

Whuntmore: New page: Vac lines made simple: You need your distributor plumbed directly to the ported vacuum on the carb. No T's, no splits... You need your PCV valve plumbed directly to the large manifold ...

Vac lines made simple:

You need your distributor plumbed directly to the ported vacuum on the carb. No T's, no splits...

You need your PCV valve plumbed directly to the large manifold port on the base of the carburetor. No T's, no splits.

Your 4x4 vac requires a direct connection to manifold vacuum. I recommend the port on the intake just below the carb that is shared w/ the brake booster.

Do the N U T T E R B Y P A S S and set your timing and you are done... Set the timing at 650RPM.

Base timing is 8-9deg, a 1deg for every thousand foot increase in elevation. (EX: set your timing at 12-13deg/650RPM at 4000' elevation)

Eagle Modifications

2011-08-01T15:01:09Z

Whuntmore:

In this section we are providing popular modifications for the AMC Eagle. Many of these articles will be written by AMC Eagle Nest members and may be enhanced with information from other sources. Some articles will be archived here which were written by others and permission was recieved to do so.

===4.0 Head Swap===

*[[Great Tips from tougeagle]]

===4.0 Engine Swaps===

*[[Joshpit's 4.0 Swap Article]]

*[[Can I swap in a Chrysler 4.0?]]

===Other engine modding===

*[[Vacuum Lines Made simple]]

===Interior Mods===

*[[Rollguy's Front Seat Angle Fix/Mod]]

File:Ignition key chime.jpg

2011-08-01T05:31:35Z

Whuntmore:

Ignition Key - chime

2011-08-01T05:30:58Z

Whuntmore:

Submitted by Iron Horse

to get your lights to shut off with the key ... wire in this relay as shown.

[[Image:ignition key chime.jpg]]

Access the grounds to the headlamps at lamp sockets ... there is a ground wire on each lamp ( four in all ).
The relay coil will only draw milli amps so you can attach to any accessory power wire. Relay contacts must be able to carry at least 10 amps ... the safety is that if the grounds short to ground worst case is that lights will have to be turned off by the lite switch as normal.
The ACC wire should be fused where you attach it.

Note: relay is shown ON ... wiper arms on the right ... de-energized contacts OPEN.

Ignition Key - chime

2011-08-01T05:20:14Z

Whuntmore: New page: Submitted by Iron Horse to get your lights to shut off with the key ... wire in this relay as shown. Access the grounds to the headlamps at lamp sockets ... there is a ground wire on ...

Submitted by Iron Horse

to get your lights to shut off with the key ... wire in this relay as shown.

Access the grounds to the headlamps at lamp sockets ... there is a ground wire on each lamp ( four in all ).
The relay coil will only draw milli amps so you can attach to any accessory power wire. Relay contacts must be able to carry at least 10 amps ... the safety is that if the grounds short to ground worst case is that lights will have to be turned off by the lite switch as normal.
The ACC wire should be fused where you attach it.

Note: relay is shown ON ... wiper arms on the right ... de-energized contacts OPEN.

How To Section

2011-08-01T05:18:32Z

Whuntmore: /* Interior */

The Legal Stuff: The information below has been submitted by various people that took the time to document a certain activity regarding AMC Eagle Service and Repairs. When a member How To is not available but the procedure is frequently requested or compliments a member How To we will then attempt to find other sources of information. Also see [[Fair Use of Copyrighted Material]].

Please review what interests you but remember every disclaimer imaginable applies and the AMC Eagle Nest cannot held held liable in any part based on the information found here. What worked for the contributor may not work for you. Please consider all variables when applying what you learn here. Not all conditions are the same, and therefore extra thought needs to be applied when trying the below recommendations for the best results. Remember that safety comes first and if you feel you are not up to the challenge then get a professional to do it. Any reference to part brands does not mean the part is still available or the part will work in your application. We just hope that this information can help anyone with a similar challenge, and will make your AMC Eagle ownership an enjoyable one.

----

=== 150/151 (2.5) Engine ===

==== 151 GM ====

==== 150 AMC ====

=== 258 (4.2) Engine ===

*[[How To Upgrade Your Valve Cover]] (1981 - 1986 only)
*[[Curing Carter BBD Carb Issues]]
*[[Other Carter carb tips]]
*[[Alternator Belt]] (With A/C)
*[[Alternator Removal & Replacement]] (With A/C)
*[[TFI Upgrade]]
*[[Diagnostic ECM Test]]
*[[21xx Autolite/Motorcraft carb upgrade]]
*[[Correctly setting your idle speed 1980 - 1988]]
*[[Converting from 7/16" head bolts to 1/2"]]
*[[Setting your Engine Timing]]
*[[Oil Pan Removal]]
*[[Timing Chain R & R]]
*[[Converting to 4.0L cylinder head, EFI and cam - manual transmission]]
*[[Building A Stroker Info]]
*[[Alternator Rebuild]]

=== Body ===
*[[Exterior Door Handle]]
*[[DECALS & OVERLAYS Repair Replacement]]
*[[Application of decals and window stickers]]
*[[Power Window R & R]]
*[[Replacing Door Hinge Bushings]]
*[[Repairing/Rebuilding Power Window Cables]]

=== Cooling ===

*[[Overheating? Includes thermostat replacement]]

=== Differentials/Axles ===
*[[Front Axle/Differential R&R]]
*[[Rear Axle/Differential R&R]]
*[[DIFFERENTIAL INSPECTION: Out Of Axle Housing]]
*[[DIFFERENTIAL INSPECTION: In Axle Housing]]
*[[DIFFERENTIAL INSPECTION: Tooth Contact Pattern Test]]
*[[Pinion Seal Replacement]]

=== Electrical - Non Engine ===
*[[3 Light Trailer Wiring (30 series Eagles) ]]
*[[Re&Re The Wiring Harness in Your Steering Column]]
*[[Headlight Switch Replacement]]

=== Exterior ===
*[[Cable-operated mirrors]]
*[[Wagon Rear Hatch Adjustment]]
*[[Fixing Those Vibrating Side Mirrors]]
*[[Replacing Exterior Woodgrain Vinyl]]

=== Interior ===

*[[Heater Core Removal]]

*[[Instrument Cluster Removal]]

*[[Center Pod Removal]]

*[[Painting interior plastic and vinyl parts]]

*[[Hood Release Handle Repair]]

*[[Headliner Replacement]]

*[[Steering Wheel Removal]]

*[[Steering Column Removal]]

*[[Ignition Lock Cylinder Removal]]

*[[How To Tighten a Loose Steering Column]]

*[[Power Seat Conversion]]

*[[Ignition Key - chime]]

=== Components/Accessories ===

*[[Rear Wiper Maintenance]]
*[[Wiper Motor R&R]]
*[[Wiper Switch Replacement/Upgrade]]
*[[Aftermarket Power Lock Install]]

=== Exhaust ===

*[[Header Pipe Back Renewal]]

=== Four Wheel Drive ===

*[[CV Half Shafts]]
*[[Front Axle Lock]] (1981 - 1984 with Select Shift I)
*[[How To Manually Shift the Transfer Case]] (1981 - 1988 Select Shift Cars)
*[[NP 129 Transfer Case Rebuilding]]
*[[Cable Operated Transfer Case Shifter - Joshpit2003]]
*[[How To Drive Without Half Shafts]]
*[[Identifing Eagle Transfer Cases]]

=== Suspension, Brakes and Wheels ===

==== Front ====

*[[Alignment Specifications]]

*[[Front Wheel Bearings]]

*[[Strut Rod Bushings]]

*[[Front Coil Spring Lift]]

*[[Front Brakes Re & Re]]

*[[Strut Rod Bushings Re & RE]]

==== Rear ====

*[[Rear Suspension Rebuild]] (With a 2" lift -- most info applies to a stock rebuild)

*[[Rear Shock Installation]] (Includes air shocks)

*[[Shock Stud Extensions]]

*[[Installing Cherokee Leaf Springs]]

=== Restoration/Conservation ===
*[[Cherokee gas tank retrofit]]

=== Transmission, Automatic ===

*[[Band Adjustment]]

*[[Diagnosis and Testing]]

*[[Throttle Cable/Rod Adjustment - 4 & 6 Cylinder Cars]]

*[[Automatic to Manual Transmission Swap]]

*[[Auxillary Transmission Cooler]]

=== Transmission, Manual ===
*[[Transmission Interchange Information]]

=== Items to Make Your Life Easier ===

*[[Member Recommended Tools to Make the Job Easier]]
*[[Eaglemailman's Fluid Changer]]
*[[What to Pack for Long Trips -- Member Suggestions]]
*[[Transporting a newly purchased car from USA to Canada]]

Rollguy's Front Seat Angle Fix/Mod

2011-07-30T03:02:12Z

Whuntmore:

I don't like the angle of the driver seat back (furthest forward notch), so I figured out a way to make it more upright. I removed the 3 torx screws holding the seat back hinge, and drilled 3 more holes to the left (counter-clockwise) of the original 3. Use a compass to mark the centerline of the radius (I failed to do this, and had to use a die grinder to get the holes just right).

I used a speaker magnet to catch all the metal chips (worked great!).

Photo of the new mounting position:

Photo of the finished job:

Notice that both seats are in their forward most notch. I still have 2 more rearward notches to match the same angle as the passenger side.

UNDER CONSTRUCTION...

Rollguy's Front Seat Angle Fix/Mod

2011-07-30T03:01:53Z

Whuntmore:

Rollguy's Front Seat Angle Fix/Mod

2011-07-30T03:01:35Z

Whuntmore:

I don't like the angle of the driver seat back (furthest forward notch), so I figured out a way to make it more upright. I removed the 3 torx screws holding the seat back hinge, and drilled 3 more holes to the left (counter-clockwise) of the original 3. Use a compass to mark the centerline of the radius (I failed to do this, and had to use a die grinder to get the holes just right).

I used a speaker magnet to catch all the metal chips (worked great!).

/Users/jaredperigord/Desktop/100_0474.jpg

Photo of the new mounting position:

Photo of the finished job:

Notice that both seats are in their forward most notch. I still have 2 more rearward notches to match the same angle as the passenger side.

Rollguy's Front Seat Angle Fix/Mod

2011-07-30T02:59:42Z

Whuntmore:

I don't like the angle of the driver seat back (furthest forward notch), so I figured out a way to make it more upright. I removed the 3 torx screws holding the seat back hinge, and drilled 3 more holes to the left (counter-clockwise) of the original 3. Use a compass to mark the centerline of the radius (I failed to do this, and had to use a die grinder to get the holes just right).

I used a speaker magnet to catch all the metal chips (worked great!).
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k13/rollguy/Eagles/100_0474.jpg

Photo of the new mounting position:
[[Image:http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k13/rollguy/Eagles/100_0475.jpg]]

Photo of the finished job:
[[Image:http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k13/rollguy/Eagles/100_0476.jpg]]

Notice that both seats are in their forward most notch. I still have 2 more rearward notches to match the same angle as the passenger side.

Rollguy's Front Seat Angle Fix/Mod

2011-07-30T02:59:19Z

Whuntmore:

I don't like the angle of the driver seat back (furthest forward notch), so I figured out a way to make it more upright. I removed the 3 torx screws holding the seat back hinge, and drilled 3 more holes to the left (counter-clockwise) of the original 3. Use a compass to mark the centerline of the radius (I failed to do this, and had to use a die grinder to get the holes just right).

I used a speaker magnet to catch all the metal chips (worked great!).
[[Image:http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k13/rollguy/Eagles/100_0474.jpg]]

Photo of the new mounting position:
[[Image:http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k13/rollguy/Eagles/100_0475.jpg]]

Photo of the finished job:
[[Image:http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k13/rollguy/Eagles/100_0476.jpg]]

Notice that both seats are in their forward most notch. I still have 2 more rearward notches to match the same angle as the passenger side.

Rollguy's Front Seat Angle Fix/Mod

2011-07-30T02:58:16Z

Whuntmore: New page: I don't like the angle of the driver seat back (furthest forward notch), so I figured out a way to make it more upright. I removed the 3 torx screws holding the seat back hinge, and drill...

I don't like the angle of the driver seat back (furthest forward notch), so I figured out a way to make it more upright. I removed the 3 torx screws holding the seat back hinge, and drilled 3 more holes to the left (counter-clockwise) of the original 3. Use a compass to mark the centerline of the radius (I failed to do this, and had to use a die grinder to get the holes just right).

I used a speaker magnet to catch all the metal chips (worked great!).
[[Image:http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k13/rollguy/Eagles/100_0474.jpg]]

Photo of the new mounting position:
[[Image:http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k13/rollguy/Eagles/100_0475.jpg]]

Photo of the finished job:
[[Image:http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k13/rollguy/Eagles/100_0476.jpg]]

Notice that both seats are in their forward most notch. I still have 2 more rearward notches to match the same angle as the passenger side.

Eagle Modifications

2011-07-30T02:56:31Z

Whuntmore:

In this section we are providing popular modifications for the AMC Eagle. Many of these articles will be written by AMC Eagle Nest members and may be enhanced with information from other sources. Some articles will be archived here which were written by others and permission was recieved to do so.

===4.0 Head Swap===

*[[Great Tips from tougeagle]]

===4.0 Engine Swaps===

*[[Joshpit's 4.0 Swap Article]]

*[[Can I swap in a Chrysler 4.0?]]

===Interior Mods===

*[[Rollguy's Front Seat Angle Fix/Mod]]

Eagle Modifications

2011-07-30T02:55:48Z

Whuntmore:

In this section we are providing popular modifications for the AMC Eagle. Many of these articles will be written by AMC Eagle Nest members and may be enhanced with information from other sources. Some articles will be archived here which were written by others and permission was recieved to do so.

===4.0 Head Swap===

*[[Great Tips from tougeagle]]

===4.0 Engine Swaps===

*[[Joshpit's 4.0 Swap Article]]

*[[Can I swap in a Chrysler 4.0?]]

===Interior mods===

*[[Rollguy's Front Seat Angle Fix/Mod]]

TFI Upgrade

2011-07-09T20:32:05Z

Whuntmore:

''Submitted by IowaEagle''

One of the most inexpensive ways to improve your 258 is to give it a hotter spark which will result in some modest performance gains. This an easy upgrade as basically all it amounts to is a tune-up; and it is a lot cheaper and easier than doing the HEI Upgrade. According to those who have done both the TFI and the HEI they have found the results are about the same.

The TFI upgrade is considered by many the second thing you should for your Eagle's 4.2 engine after your replace the plastic valve cover. It has been reported the TFI conversion will add 800 to 1,000 additional useable RPM and a slight improvement in your MPG. I know it did for me. And the best part it uses off the shelf parts for virtually a plug and play installation.

Why should you do this? Your stock AMC coil puts out about a measley 18,000 volts. To run much more efficiently you will benefit from a hotter coil that puts out 35,000 - 40,000+ volts. However just replacing the coil will not do much for you. This is because since the small diameter original equipment type distributor cap married to a hotter coil will result in arcing inside the cap. That is not good. The parts you will replace doing the TFI will stop that from happening.

The parts you will need are from Ford applications with the 300 Inline-6 engine. Since AMC used a Ford distributor and ignition box these parts interchange without any modifications whatsoever. And the best thing is you don't have to remove your present distributor to do this.

I purchased my parts from Advance Auto so I will be using their part numbers -- your part's person can easily cross these numbers over to the brands they sell.

You will need for the distributor a new larger diameter cap, an adapter for the cap to fit on your current distributor and the rotor for the new cap.

[[Image:Newcap.jpg]] '''New Distributor Cap - GP Sorenson FR121'''

[[Image:Newrotor.jpg]] '''New Rotor - GP Sorenson FR 106'''

[[Image:Capadapter.jpg]] '''Cap Adapter - GP Sorenson FR109'''

'''Also, check for distributor Cap Part number - FD151T - It's for a 1979 Ford F150 300 Straight 6 engine. (I don't know if this is a Canadian number, but I replaced my cap, and this is the part number - Editors)'''

To carry all the new spark from your new coil (described below) you will also need to upgrade to 8 mm plug wires with the correct ends to fit your new cap. You probably need new wires anyway -- especially if your present ones have the AMC logo on them. I used the store brand from Advance Auto Part Number '''Xact 2962'''.

This is also a good time to get new spark plugs; unless you just put some in. You can use the brand you prefer. Just make sure to get ones for an AMC 258. '''Gap these to .045'''.

The heart of your TFI upgrade is of course a new hotter coil. I used the Accel 8140 ($30.00) For $5.00 more you can get the one where the OEM coil connector on your Eagle plugs right on. If you use the less expensive one you will need to remove the connector to get to the wires to attach them to the posts.

[[Image:Newcoil.jpg]] '''Accel 8140 Coil'''

Now to the How To part of this upgrade.

Disconnect your battery (safety first).

Remove your coil wire. That is the one in the middle of the distributor cap that goes to the present coil.

Loosen the screws on your present cap and remove cap along with the spark plug wires.

Remove old rotor from distibutor.

Install spacer. You will notice the screws are tightened from the inside of the spacer. Spacer is notched and only goes on one way. Tighten screws.

Install new rotor. It too is notched and only goes on one way.

Install cap. Again notched and goes on one way. Snap the attaching clips into position to secure cap.

Remove old spark plugs -- if you are using them regap to .045 '''OR''' gap the new plugs you bought to the same specs. Install plugs.

Now remove the plug on top of your coil and let it dangle.

Remove the coil bracket from the engine (this makes it easier to remove the old and install the new coil). Two bolts hold it to the block. The coil will come with it so hang on to it when you take the last bolt out.

Swap out your coils -- make sure to tighten screw on bracket that holds coil in place.

Now if you purchased the coil that does not have the spade studs for your old connector to just fit right back on you will need to do a little wiring. First you need to locate the positve lug on the old coil and then look at your connector to see which wires went to that one. Clip the positive side wire or wires as close as you can to the connector and crimp on a suitable sized insulated loop connector (just large enough to go over the stud of the new coil). Once you have the connector on check to make sure the crimp holds. Now attach it too the positive stud on the new coil.

Repeat the above operation with the negative side. Make sure all connections are tight.

Unbox your new spark plug wires. There should be six plug wires and maybe two coil wires. Lay them out by length. The two longest will go to the very front and very rear plugs (cylinders 1 & 6) -- the two shortest ones will go to the inside plugs (cylinders 3 & 4).

Using the Six Cylinder Firing Order Chart found below begin installing your plug wires starting with the number one wire on the cap. '''Note some caps are marked with a #1 this may or may not be correct for our application. Our number one plug when looking down at the cap from the fender is close to the 6:00 position (Reference the diagram below) -- some of these caps may have #1 in the 7:00 position you do not want to start there. ''' Work clockwise until all are done. Make sure all connections are tight.

[[Image:Sixfire.jpg]]

The numbers on the distributor may be hard to read. The firing order is as follows. '''1 - 5 - 3 - 6 - 2 - 4'''. So plug wire number 1 on the distributor (the hole nearest you when looking down on the cap from over the fender) goes to the very front spark plug. The next position clockwise on the distributor is #5 and it goes to the next to last plug on the engine. So just keep going until all six are done.

Now install the coil wire. If more than one is supplied use the one that looks to be the appropriate length without being too long.

Now, double check everything -- especially that your plug wires go to the correct plugs.

Reconnect your battery.

Start car. If everything was done right it should purr like a kitten.

Test drive your AMC Eagle and see if you notice any difference.

TFI Upgrade

2011-07-09T20:30:54Z

Whuntmore:

''Submitted by IowaEagle''

One of the most inexpensive ways to improve your 258 is to give it a hotter spark which will result in some modest performance gains. This an easy upgrade as basically all it amounts to is a tune-up; and it is a lot cheaper and easier than doing the HEI Upgrade. According to those who have done both the TFI and the HEI they have found the results are about the same.

The TFI upgrade is considered by many the second thing you should for your Eagle's 4.2 engine after your replace the plastic valve cover. It has been reported the TFI conversion will add 800 to 1,000 additional useable RPM and a slight improvement in your MPG. I know it did for me. And the best part it uses off the shelf parts for virtually a plug and play installation.

Why should you do this? Your stock AMC coil puts out about a measley 18,000 volts. To run much more efficiently you will benefit from a hotter coil that puts out 35,000 - 40,000+ volts. However just replacing the coil will not do much for you. This is because since the small diameter original equipment type distributor cap married to a hotter coil will result in arcing inside the cap. That is not good. The parts you will replace doing the TFI will stop that from happening.

The parts you will need are from Ford applications with the 300 Inline-6 engine. Since AMC used a Ford distributor and ignition box these parts interchange without any modifications whatsoever. And the best thing is you don't have to remove your present distributor to do this.

I purchased my parts from Advance Auto so I will be using their part numbers -- your part's person can easily cross these numbers over to the brands they sell.

You will need for the distributor a new larger diameter cap, an adapter for the cap to fit on your current distributor and the rotor for the new cap.

[[Image:Newcap.jpg]] '''New Distributor Cap - GP Sorenson FR121'''

[[Image:Newrotor.jpg]] '''New Rotor - GP Sorenson FR 106'''

[[Image:Capadapter.jpg]] '''Cap Adapter - GP Sorenson FR109'''

'''Also, check for distributor Cap Part number - FD151T (I don't know if this is a Canadian number, but I replaced my cap, and this is the part number - Editors)'''

To carry all the new spark from your new coil (described below) you will also need to upgrade to 8 mm plug wires with the correct ends to fit your new cap. You probably need new wires anyway -- especially if your present ones have the AMC logo on them. I used the store brand from Advance Auto Part Number '''Xact 2962'''.

This is also a good time to get new spark plugs; unless you just put some in. You can use the brand you prefer. Just make sure to get ones for an AMC 258. '''Gap these to .045'''.

The heart of your TFI upgrade is of course a new hotter coil. I used the Accel 8140 ($30.00) For $5.00 more you can get the one where the OEM coil connector on your Eagle plugs right on. If you use the less expensive one you will need to remove the connector to get to the wires to attach them to the posts.

[[Image:Newcoil.jpg]] '''Accel 8140 Coil'''

Now to the How To part of this upgrade.

Disconnect your battery (safety first).

Remove your coil wire. That is the one in the middle of the distributor cap that goes to the present coil.

Loosen the screws on your present cap and remove cap along with the spark plug wires.

Remove old rotor from distibutor.

Install spacer. You will notice the screws are tightened from the inside of the spacer. Spacer is notched and only goes on one way. Tighten screws.

Install new rotor. It too is notched and only goes on one way.

Install cap. Again notched and goes on one way. Snap the attaching clips into position to secure cap.

Remove old spark plugs -- if you are using them regap to .045 '''OR''' gap the new plugs you bought to the same specs. Install plugs.

Now remove the plug on top of your coil and let it dangle.

Remove the coil bracket from the engine (this makes it easier to remove the old and install the new coil). Two bolts hold it to the block. The coil will come with it so hang on to it when you take the last bolt out.

Swap out your coils -- make sure to tighten screw on bracket that holds coil in place.

Now if you purchased the coil that does not have the spade studs for your old connector to just fit right back on you will need to do a little wiring. First you need to locate the positve lug on the old coil and then look at your connector to see which wires went to that one. Clip the positive side wire or wires as close as you can to the connector and crimp on a suitable sized insulated loop connector (just large enough to go over the stud of the new coil). Once you have the connector on check to make sure the crimp holds. Now attach it too the positive stud on the new coil.

Repeat the above operation with the negative side. Make sure all connections are tight.

Unbox your new spark plug wires. There should be six plug wires and maybe two coil wires. Lay them out by length. The two longest will go to the very front and very rear plugs (cylinders 1 & 6) -- the two shortest ones will go to the inside plugs (cylinders 3 & 4).

Using the Six Cylinder Firing Order Chart found below begin installing your plug wires starting with the number one wire on the cap. '''Note some caps are marked with a #1 this may or may not be correct for our application. Our number one plug when looking down at the cap from the fender is close to the 6:00 position (Reference the diagram below) -- some of these caps may have #1 in the 7:00 position you do not want to start there. ''' Work clockwise until all are done. Make sure all connections are tight.

[[Image:Sixfire.jpg]]

The numbers on the distributor may be hard to read. The firing order is as follows. '''1 - 5 - 3 - 6 - 2 - 4'''. So plug wire number 1 on the distributor (the hole nearest you when looking down on the cap from over the fender) goes to the very front spark plug. The next position clockwise on the distributor is #5 and it goes to the next to last plug on the engine. So just keep going until all six are done.

Now install the coil wire. If more than one is supplied use the one that looks to be the appropriate length without being too long.

Now, double check everything -- especially that your plug wires go to the correct plugs.

Reconnect your battery.

Start car. If everything was done right it should purr like a kitten.

Test drive your AMC Eagle and see if you notice any difference.

TFI Upgrade

2011-07-09T20:30:12Z

Whuntmore:

''Submitted by IowaEagle''

One of the most inexpensive ways to improve your 258 is to give it a hotter spark which will result in some modest performance gains. This an easy upgrade as basically all it amounts to is a tune-up; and it is a lot cheaper and easier than doing the HEI Upgrade. According to those who have done both the TFI and the HEI they have found the results are about the same.

The TFI upgrade is considered by many the second thing you should for your Eagle's 4.2 engine after your replace the plastic valve cover. It has been reported the TFI conversion will add 800 to 1,000 additional useable RPM and a slight improvement in your MPG. I know it did for me. And the best part it uses off the shelf parts for virtually a plug and play installation.

Why should you do this? Your stock AMC coil puts out about a measley 18,000 volts. To run much more efficiently you will benefit from a hotter coil that puts out 35,000 - 40,000+ volts. However just replacing the coil will not do much for you. This is because since the small diameter original equipment type distributor cap married to a hotter coil will result in arcing inside the cap. That is not good. The parts you will replace doing the TFI will stop that from happening.

The parts you will need are from Ford applications with the 300 Inline-6 engine. Since AMC used a Ford distributor and ignition box these parts interchange without any modifications whatsoever. And the best thing is you don't have to remove your present distributor to do this.

I purchased my parts from Advance Auto so I will be using their part numbers -- your part's person can easily cross these numbers over to the brands they sell.

You will need for the distributor a new larger diameter cap, an adapter for the cap to fit on your current distributor and the rotor for the new cap.

[[Image:Newcap.jpg]] '''New Distributor Cap - GP Sorenson FR121'''

[[Image:Newrotor.jpg]] '''New Rotor - GP Sorenson FR 106'''

[[Image:Capadapter.jpg]] '''Cap Adapter - GP Sorenson FR109'''

Also, check for distributor Cap Part number - FD151T (I don't know if this is a Canadian number, but I replaced my cap, and this is the part number - Editors)

To carry all the new spark from your new coil (described below) you will also need to upgrade to 8 mm plug wires with the correct ends to fit your new cap. You probably need new wires anyway -- especially if your present ones have the AMC logo on them. I used the store brand from Advance Auto Part Number '''Xact 2962'''.

This is also a good time to get new spark plugs; unless you just put some in. You can use the brand you prefer. Just make sure to get ones for an AMC 258. '''Gap these to .045'''.

The heart of your TFI upgrade is of course a new hotter coil. I used the Accel 8140 ($30.00) For $5.00 more you can get the one where the OEM coil connector on your Eagle plugs right on. If you use the less expensive one you will need to remove the connector to get to the wires to attach them to the posts.

[[Image:Newcoil.jpg]] '''Accel 8140 Coil'''

Now to the How To part of this upgrade.

Disconnect your battery (safety first).

Remove your coil wire. That is the one in the middle of the distributor cap that goes to the present coil.

Loosen the screws on your present cap and remove cap along with the spark plug wires.

Remove old rotor from distibutor.

Install spacer. You will notice the screws are tightened from the inside of the spacer. Spacer is notched and only goes on one way. Tighten screws.

Install new rotor. It too is notched and only goes on one way.

Install cap. Again notched and goes on one way. Snap the attaching clips into position to secure cap.

Remove old spark plugs -- if you are using them regap to .045 '''OR''' gap the new plugs you bought to the same specs. Install plugs.

Now remove the plug on top of your coil and let it dangle.

Remove the coil bracket from the engine (this makes it easier to remove the old and install the new coil). Two bolts hold it to the block. The coil will come with it so hang on to it when you take the last bolt out.

Swap out your coils -- make sure to tighten screw on bracket that holds coil in place.

Now if you purchased the coil that does not have the spade studs for your old connector to just fit right back on you will need to do a little wiring. First you need to locate the positve lug on the old coil and then look at your connector to see which wires went to that one. Clip the positive side wire or wires as close as you can to the connector and crimp on a suitable sized insulated loop connector (just large enough to go over the stud of the new coil). Once you have the connector on check to make sure the crimp holds. Now attach it too the positive stud on the new coil.

Repeat the above operation with the negative side. Make sure all connections are tight.

Unbox your new spark plug wires. There should be six plug wires and maybe two coil wires. Lay them out by length. The two longest will go to the very front and very rear plugs (cylinders 1 & 6) -- the two shortest ones will go to the inside plugs (cylinders 3 & 4).

Using the Six Cylinder Firing Order Chart found below begin installing your plug wires starting with the number one wire on the cap. '''Note some caps are marked with a #1 this may or may not be correct for our application. Our number one plug when looking down at the cap from the fender is close to the 6:00 position (Reference the diagram below) -- some of these caps may have #1 in the 7:00 position you do not want to start there. ''' Work clockwise until all are done. Make sure all connections are tight.

[[Image:Sixfire.jpg]]

The numbers on the distributor may be hard to read. The firing order is as follows. '''1 - 5 - 3 - 6 - 2 - 4'''. So plug wire number 1 on the distributor (the hole nearest you when looking down on the cap from over the fender) goes to the very front spark plug. The next position clockwise on the distributor is #5 and it goes to the next to last plug on the engine. So just keep going until all six are done.

Now install the coil wire. If more than one is supplied use the one that looks to be the appropriate length without being too long.

Now, double check everything -- especially that your plug wires go to the correct plugs.

Reconnect your battery.

Start car. If everything was done right it should purr like a kitten.

Test drive your AMC Eagle and see if you notice any difference.

Identifying Eagle Transfer Cases

2011-07-05T00:19:47Z

Whuntmore:

about ID of cases without the build tags (a 2" round tag with a screw in the middle of it and lettering stamped in it) -

'''The 119 case''' will have no linkage attachment where the shift fork comes out of the front half of the case, it will only have a locking nut to hold the non-moveable shift fork in place, or it is a bolt plug, if there is no shift fork(haven't had a 119 apart, haven't looked at an exploded diagram to see if theres a shift fork er not).

'''The 128 and 129''' will look the same from the outside. Both will have a shift-able linkage attachment. On the 128, you will be able to relatively easily turn the front and rear outputs against each other(turn each the opposite direction of the other) when it is in 4wd mode, since it has an open differential. I'm not sure if its a lock-able differential like the NP 242, where the differential is locked when the case is in 4wd Low mode. Its probably not lockable. Anyway, the 129 has the viscous coupler, and it should take some considerable effort or even a wrench to turn the front and rear outputs against each other when the transfer case is in 4wd mode.

[[So]]

'''119''', no shifter linkage attachment

'''128''', has shifter linkage attachment, open diff, can turn outputs against each other in 4wd

'''129''', has shifter linkage attachment, viscous coupler, difficult to turn outputs against each other in 4wd

Even a worn out viscous coupler will have much more resistance than the open diff.

Thanks to txjeeptx for the info

Identifying Eagle Transfer Cases

2011-07-05T00:18:50Z

Whuntmore:

about ID of cases without the build tags (a 2" round tag with a screw in the middle of it and lettering stamped in it) -

The 119 case will have no linkage attachment where the shift fork comes out of the front half of the case, it will only have a locking nut to hold the non-moveable shift fork in place, or it is a bolt plug, if there is no shift fork(haven't had a 119 apart, haven't looked at an exploded diagram to see if theres a shift fork er not).

The 128 and 129 will look the same from the outside. Both will have a shift-able linkage attachment. On the 128, you will be able to relatively easily turn the front and rear outputs against each other(turn each the opposite direction of the other) when it is in 4wd mode, since it has an open differential. I'm not sure if its a lock-able differential like the NP 242, where the differential is locked when the case is in 4wd Low mode. Its probably not lockable. Anyway, the 129 has the viscous coupler, and it should take some considerable effort or even a wrench to turn the front and rear outputs against each other when the transfer case is in 4wd mode.

[[So]]

119, no shifter linkage attachment

128, has shifter linkage attachment, open diff, can turn outputs against each other in 4wd

129, has shifter linkage attachment, viscous coupler, difficult to turn outputs against each other in 4wd

Even a worn out viscous coupler will have much more resistance than the open diff.

Thanks to txjeeptx for the info

Identifying Eagle Transfer Cases

2011-07-05T00:18:32Z

Whuntmore:

about ID of cases without the build tags (a 2" round tag with a screw in the middle of it and lettering stamped in it) -

The 119 case will have no linkage attachment where the shift fork comes out of the front half of the case, it will only have a locking nut to hold the non-moveable shift fork in place, or it is a bolt plug, if there is no shift fork(haven't had a 119 apart, haven't looked at an exploded diagram to see if theres a shift fork er not).

The 128 and 129 will look the same from the outside. Both will have a shift-able linkage attachment. On the 128, you will be able to relatively easily turn the front and rear outputs against each other(turn each the opposite direction of the other) when it is in 4wd mode, since it has an open differential. I'm not sure if its a lock-able differential like the NP 242, where the differential is locked when the case is in 4wd Low mode. Its probably not lockable. Anyway, the 129 has the viscous coupler, and it should take some considerable effort or even a wrench to turn the front and rear outputs against each other when the transfer case is in 4wd mode.

So
119, no shifter linkage attachment

128, has shifter linkage attachment, open diff, can turn outputs against each other in 4wd

129, has shifter linkage attachment, viscous coupler, difficult to turn outputs against each other in 4wd

Even a worn out viscous coupler will have much more resistance than the open diff.

Thanks to txjeeptx for the info

Identifying Eagle Transfer Cases

2011-07-05T00:18:12Z

Whuntmore:

about ID of cases without the build tags (a 2" round tag with a screw in the middle of it and lettering stamped in it) -

The 119 case will have no linkage attachment where the shift fork comes out of the front half of the case, it will only have a locking nut to hold the non-moveable shift fork in place, or it is a bolt plug, if there is no shift fork(haven't had a 119 apart, haven't looked at an exploded diagram to see if theres a shift fork er not).

The 128 and 129 will look the same from the outside. Both will have a shift-able linkage attachment. On the 128, you will be able to relatively easily turn the front and rear outputs against each other(turn each the opposite direction of the other) when it is in 4wd mode, since it has an open differential. I'm not sure if its a lock-able differential like the NP 242, where the differential is locked when the case is in 4wd Low mode. Its probably not lockable. Anyway, the 129 has the viscous coupler, and it should take some considerable effort or even a wrench to turn the front and rear outputs against each other when the transfer case is in 4wd mode.

So
<nowiki>119, no shifter linkage attachment
128, has shifter linkage attachment, open diff, can turn outputs against each other in 4wd
129, has shifter linkage attachment, viscous coupler, difficult to turn outputs against each other in 4wd
</nowiki>
Even a worn out viscous coupler will have much more resistance than the open diff.

Thanks to txjeeptx for the info

Identifying Eagle Transfer Cases

2011-07-05T00:17:40Z

Whuntmore:

about ID of cases without the build tags (a 2" round tag with a screw in the middle of it and lettering stamped in it) -

The 119 case will have no linkage attachment where the shift fork comes out of the front half of the case, it will only have a locking nut to hold the non-moveable shift fork in place, or it is a bolt plug, if there is no shift fork(haven't had a 119 apart, haven't looked at an exploded diagram to see if theres a shift fork er not).

The 128 and 129 will look the same from the outside. Both will have a shift-able linkage attachment. On the 128, you will be able to relatively easily turn the front and rear outputs against each other(turn each the opposite direction of the other) when it is in 4wd mode, since it has an open differential. I'm not sure if its a lock-able differential like the NP 242, where the differential is locked when the case is in 4wd Low mode. Its probably not lockable. Anyway, the 129 has the viscous coupler, and it should take some considerable effort or even a wrench to turn the front and rear outputs against each other when the transfer case is in 4wd mode.

So
119, no shifter linkage attachment
128, has shifter linkage attachment, open diff, can turn outputs against each other in 4wd
129, has shifter linkage attachment, viscous coupler, difficult to turn outputs against each other in 4wd

Even a worn out viscous coupler will have much more resistance than the open diff.

Thanks to txjeeptx for the info

Identifying Eagle Transfer Cases

2011-07-05T00:16:54Z

Whuntmore: New page: about ID of cases without the build tags (a 2" round tag with a screw in the middle of it and lettering stamped in it) - The 119 case will have no linkage attachment where the shift fork...

about ID of cases without the build tags (a 2" round tag with a screw in the middle of it and lettering stamped in it) -

The 119 case will have no linkage attachment where the shift fork comes out of the front half of the case, it will only have a locking nut to hold the non-moveable shift fork in place, or it is a bolt plug, if there is no shift fork(haven't had a 119 apart, haven't looked at an exploded diagram to see if theres a shift fork er not).

The 128 and 129 will look the same from the outside. Both will have a shift-able linkage attachment. On the 128, you will be able to relatively easily turn the front and rear outputs against each other(turn each the opposite direction of the other) when it is in 4wd mode, since it has an open differential. I'm not sure if its a lock-able differential like the NP 242, where the differential is locked when the case is in 4wd Low mode. Its probably not lockable. Anyway, the 129 has the viscous coupler, and it should take some considerable effort or even a wrench to turn the front and rear outputs against each other when the transfer case is in 4wd mode.

So - 119, no shifter linkage attachment
- 128, has shifter linkage attachment, open diff, can turn outputs against each other in 4wd
- 129, has shifter linkage attachment, viscous coupler, difficult to turn outputs against each other in 4wd
Even a worn out viscous coupler will have much more resistance than the open diff.

Thanks to txjeeptx for the info

Technical Indexes

2011-07-05T00:16:10Z

Whuntmore: /* Identifying Your AMC Eagle */

== Identifying Your AMC Eagle ==

*[[1980 Models]]
*[[1981 thru 1986 Models]]
*[[1987 and 1988 Models]]
*[[AMC 258 CID (4.2 Litte) Engine Block Identification Numbers]]
*[[Identifying Eagle Transfer Cases]]

== Technical FAQ Section ==

*[[Will Any 258 Fit In My Eagle?]]
*[[Will A Donor Oil Pan From a 258 Jeep or Non Eagle Car Work?]]
*[[Can I swap in a Chrysler 4.0?]]
*[[How do you build a stroker using 258 and 4.0 parts?]]
*[[What seats fit which Eagles?]]
*[[ Body Parts Intechangeability: Hinges, Door Handles]]
*[[Transmissions Used]]
*[[Oil Pan Interchanges]]

== Flat Rate and OE Part Numbers ==

*[[Flat Rate/Component Manual]]'''